Bed design critique please - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 06:30:PM Thread Starter
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Bed design critique please

Working on the bed design. I am thinking of running a 2x6 or similar North to South along the walls as shown in the picture. There will be a layer of Burma rubber or similar between the 2x6 and van steel as a squeak preventative (I hope).

The bed frame will be angle aluminum that sits on top of the 2x6 as shown and will have 2"x1" or thereabouts aluminum rectangular tubing welded East to West across the van between the two aluminum angles. 3/8" ply on top of the aluminum tube attached with sheet metal screws and mattress on the ply.

Motivation for the wood is it won't transmit significant heat to the bed frame. Morey got the squeakies when he directly bolted a 2xsomething to the van steel in the manner I am proposing, thus the rubber.

Edit: I need the bottom of the bed frame to be 25" off the finished floor. A 2x6 attached at the location shown gives the perfect 25" height for a shelf on which to rest the cross-wise frame members.

I will bolt the bed frame thru the 2x6 in each of the four corners using threaded rod. The frame will be removable.

The right rear wheel hump is shown in the lower left of the picture. The front pass seat in the middle left of the pix is rotated 90 degrees and is facing the drivers position, in case that caused any confusion.

Mostly I am concerned about squeaks and rattles.......

All input most welcome.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:55:PM
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2X is grossly oversized material for van construction.

That is all. Over and out.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 10:12:PM
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Yeah, I was going to say that 1x6 might be better, since the load is vertical and carried by the screws anyway. I guess 2x6 because it comes out nicely with the aluminum angle? I guess with 2x6 you can easily add things like eyebolt lag screws as tiedown points without worrying about them pulling out or going through to the paint, too. Now I'm sold on the 2x6.

There's going to be heat on the interior wall of the van? Are you cooking meth in there?

As for squeak, there are a lot of things you can put in between. Felt, rubber, cork, or even rubber washers where the bolts/screws are and nowhere else. I've used click-lock floor underlayment foam with success.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 12:35:PM Thread Starter
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Yea, 2x6 seems crazy. But it does what is needed (provide a mounting surface at the right height above the available fastener locations in the body, isolate the aluminum bed frame from van metal, etc.) Just looks like crap.

You might be happy then that I've moved on from that idea. I now intend to install 4 vertical "legs" onto which a horizontal 2x2 aluminum angle will rest at the height of the previously proposed 2x6 top. The legs will be out of steel angle and will fasten to the D-ring attachment points (bottom of D pillars, on top of rear wheel hump). 1x2 aluminum rectangular tube will run east to west between the aluminum angles. Alum tube welded to alum angle, alum angle bolted to a small piece of steel welded into the top of the flange of the steel leg. 1/4" or more Burma rubber between the steel and aluminum.

Beauty of this version is there is nothing to squeak since nothing is rubbing. And the bed frame does not try to tie the sides of the van together nearly as much as the previous version. It is just sort of a 4-legged bed that sits on the D-ring bolts. It can move and flex as the van moves and flexes while in motion.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 01:54:PM
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Similar theory. 4 vertical legs. Two alum bar, two angle. Ikea bed rails hook onto horizontal alum angle bolted to the "legs". The legs are bolted into existing van wall holes. Works for a twin bed. No squeaks. Theoretically height adjustable by drilling additional holes for the horizontal rails.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 03:07:PM
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my Murphy bed is held in place by 4 motorcycle tie down straps -

folds up and down in 10 seconds -
can be removed from van in 3 minutes -
adjustable height and angle -- Easy

1 foot thick when folded against van wall -

no squeaks or noise at all -

bed is Not attached to wall of van using bolts or anything else -No hinges -
its Hanging from upper wall with 4 straps

usually leave bed down - it does not move around at all when driving -

I had made Murphy bed that was attached to wall with hinges -
but i tore it out and replaced with this design - Much Better -

most people way over build bed -
I did it myself on a bed 30 yrs ago - was super uncomfortable -
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:10:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVing View Post
Working on the bed design. I am thinking of running a 2x6 or similar North to South along the walls as shown in the picture. There will be a layer of Burma rubber or similar between the 2x6 and van steel as a squeak preventative (I hope).

All input most welcome.

This is similar to what I did. I initially planned to mount 2x6's to the van wall to attach aluminum rails across. I used the 2x6's (cut to 2x5) but I ended up adding legs to it for a few reasons: Since the wall was not square at the point where I wanted to attach the 2x5 it would have ended up at a slight angle and would need to be shimmed,. The wall at that spot was also a bit flimsy, so I didn't like the idea of setting rivnuts and using longer bolts to accommodate for shims . The legs provided additional support and allowed me to easily and quickly attach the wood frame at a lower point, where there were already factory drilled holes (and some factory threaded seatbelt attachment points). Now after using the van I am really glad I stuck some legs on it as they have provided lots of places to easily mount hooks and tie down points.



I used foam tape and foam drawer liner to isolate the wood from the wall, and the aluminum from the wood. I used that foam tape everywhere VHB tape was not needed and it has worked great and is very cheap in comparison. And using this stuff, unlike VHB, you can easily take stuff apart if you need to.



Hope that helps
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:11:PM
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Eiko's solution is easy to execute, not expensive and the Ikea bed spring is comfortable and ventilates the bottom of the mattress. I'd copy that. Ikea has several versions of that bed spring.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 11:23:AM
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Originally Posted by lincolnjbutler View Post
This is similar to what I did. I initially planned to mount 2x6's to the van wall to attach aluminum rails across. I used the 2x6's (cut to 2x5) but I ended up adding legs to it for a few reasons: Since the wall was not square at the point where I wanted to attach the 2x5 it would have ended up at a slight angle and would need to be shimmed,. The wall at that spot was also a bit flimsy, so I didn't like the idea of setting rivnuts and using longer bolts to accommodate for shims . The legs provided additional support and allowed me to easily and quickly attach the wood frame at a lower point, where there were already factory drilled holes (and some factory threaded seatbelt attachment points). Now after using the van I am really glad I stuck some legs on it as they have provided lots of places to easily mount hooks and tie down points.



I used foam tape and foam drawer liner to isolate the wood from the wall, and the aluminum from the wood. I used that foam tape everywhere VHB tape was not needed and it has worked great and is very cheap in comparison. And using this stuff, unlike VHB, you can easily take stuff apart if you need to.



Hope that helps
Thanks for he post. Just wondering if you have a few closeup shots of the bed. Thanks.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 06:23:PM
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Thanks for he post. Just wondering if you have a few closeup shots of the bed. Thanks.
.

Here are some other shots, I will take a few closeups when I get home
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File Type: jpg 879EEDB3-9677-42BE-B672-0C482F510AC8_1561587662578.jpg (510.5 KB, 38 views)
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