Floor Vent - Design Review/Sanity Check - Page 2 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:57:AM
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Originally Posted by JKCalhoun View Post
Guessing the issue is when it rains. Cracking windows etc. let in the rain.
Never been a problem. My van is sitting in rain right now with sliders wide open.

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ventshad...SIN=B000GZBZOE

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:33:PM
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Originally Posted by ranxerox View Post
At least you can do is give credit where credit is do instead of claiming it for your own.

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...loor-vent.html
If you read the info in my build thread you would find where I have credited Orton and Van for the inspiration.

I can also assure you that neither of them did any of the actual work on my van. I do claim the labor, and the variations from their designs as my own.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:48:PM
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Originally Posted by BabyBuffy View Post
Cracking the driver and/or passenger window and/or slider window if you have them should provide all the air needed for whatever flow purposes are required.
I was unable to fathom how to get the air from a cracked window into the bottom of the cabinet where my inverter and fridge are, in order to provide convection. This was the "flow purpose" I was solving for.

The hole in the floor will provide slightly cooler air from in the shade under the van in a path to promote convection in the cabinet. Flow is further enhanced when the fan is exhausting, creating a low pressure area in the van to draw cool air into the space I want to encourage airflow. Doing the same through an open window will carry it across the top of the interior and out the fan, in no way contributing to improving convection behind the fridge.

The floor vent also has a permanent screen to keep out the bugs, and a filter for dust. Rain and blowing rain are mitigated by having the entire van in the way of their getting through. Using the roll-down-the-window method would necessitate installing a screen/filter every time, and removing it when done, or, whenever blowing rain is getting in. Then, finding a place to store the insert(s) when not deployed. I'm lazy, and know that putting in more effort up front will save me from an uncountable number of smaller efforts over time.

After comparing the options the open window method fell short of meeting the spec for my build. To be crystal clear, none of this will provide any "cooling" at all. Ambient is as good as it gets without refrigeration. Heat from components may increase temps at the ceiling imperceptibly. Designing for an optimal air flow path to reduce heat load on the fridge was the goal. That saves power.

I'm happy that such a simple solution is sufficient for your application. It certainly should be considered by anyone before undertaking perforating the body. As could making sure the dash vent is open (Recirculate Off) before shutting down, as that can make use of a built-in air source less prone to bugs and blowing rain getting through. Though the OEM duct work may restrict flow more than an open window does.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:06:PM
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Originally Posted by Travlin View Post
The hole in the floor will provide slightly cooler air from in the shade under the van in a path to promote convection in the cabinet.

Using the roll-down the window method would necessitate installing a screen/filter every time, and removing it when done, or, when blowing rain is getting in.

I'm happy that such a simple solution is sufficient for your application.

It certainly should be considered by anyone before undertaking perforating the body. .
Fair enough. Pretty sure I could engineer a simpler solution for any bug problems but it might be a little ghetto. My sliders have screens so there's that.

One might argue if you drive all day, at night when a place to park is settled on, the ground will have retained heat from the
day such that it is warmer than ambient temperature. Not often I suppose but since we are throwing out every excuse for a point of view that's another one of mine. Also, in the scenarios mentioned involving rain and wind I question all the more the need for extra cooling (assuming what's been described is "extra" and just not a glorious German solution to solve a sprinter EPA requirement) capability.

Our screened sliders are beloved.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:18:PM
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The 4" square hole in my floor located under the refrigerator has natural air flow up past the refrigerator radiator and out the unpowered open Maxxair fan in warm weather.

Hole is left open 98% of the time. Closed if on dirt road or at night in the winter to retain heat inside the van.

Seems to work as expected to reduce inside the van temperatures without powering a fan.
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:03:PM
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Agree about the sanity test. I exhausted my motivation bank account for working under the van on the diesel tank for the Espar. Looking at the vent idea isn’t actually doing it. I treated myself ti an easy, no fabrication necessary solution and plunked down a hundred bucks for the metal window louvers made in Germany. They’re very nice and fairly stealthy in use. Noted the much cheaper plastic gutter guard solution, but favored the purpose-made material, fit and finish of the louvers.

But that doesn’t seem to stop me from thinking about vents and other improvements. Gotta keep chasing that roadrunner.

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:56:PM
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Originally Posted by joelnelson1111 View Post
Hardware cloth and window screen to fit with various screws

At the Habitat ReStore yard today, I saw a 4" PVC elbow with factory-embedded screen intended to keep critters out of plumbing and furnace vents. Searching "4 pvc fitting screen" came up with a number of options. Here's one which might be easier to install than working with hardware cloth:

https://www.amazon.com/Raven-R1510-Termination-Stainless-Condensation/dp/B01BW36MWI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2/144-6882950-6492751?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PEMB22QRYZ7XJ3 FKTESW
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:32:PM
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OP @joelnelson1111 - That is a good location, not really in the way of traffic. Forward of a safety partition but accessible behind the passenger seat. Probably want to let the exhaust system cool down before opening - it doesn't take long.


I'd consider it, except I've installed major components of my electrical system in boxes behind the driver and passenger seat. I would have had to have noticed this vent option way back at the beginning. The Sterling B2B charger is sitting right on top of that location. Ah well, maybe next time...which will never come. So I say.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 12:04:AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by perchancetodream View Post
At the Habitat ReStore yard today, I saw a 4" PVC elbow with factory-embedded screen intended to keep critters out of plumbing and furnace vents...

That is awesome, thanks for the link!!

Sure appreciate the feedback from you and all posters.



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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 12:06:AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Eiko View Post
How about lubing the threads with silicone grease.

I did try 3-in-1 dry lock lubricant and got good improvement . Thanks!!



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