Hot Tamale build thread - Page 7 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #61 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:24:AM
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To transfer the location of the plus nuts, take a 1/4-20 bolt or whatever size your plus nut is. Cut the head off, just leaving a threaded stud. Then put a point on it with a grinder. Thread the stud in, leaving the pointed end sticking out. Then hold your board up there and tap with a hammer or just push real hard. It will leave a divot. I circle them with a pencil as soon as I remove the wood, so I can find them later when drilling.
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post #62 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 12:25:PM
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I love the detail and thought you are putting into your construction, I am about to embark on the same process starting next week.

You may have mentioned and I missed it, but can you give your thoughts on why you created the battens around the foam and then secured the floor to the battens instead of just creating a plywood sandwich between metal - foam - plywood?

I gather that the battens are for screwing into with wood screws to retain the cabinetry, is that the only reason?

Thanks in advance for your help!

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post #63 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:41:PM Thread Starter
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The battens are indeed backing to give cabinets (etc.) something more than ½"of plywood to screw into.

Additionally, I was a little worried about the foam being crushed down over time. The battens will resist that.
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post #64 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:57:PM Thread Starter
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Photos of the finished, installed "bed rails". Also, made a drawing showing dimensions.

Some things perhaps not obvious:

• You see the large rectangular rail, but behind it is a "doubler" ("B" in my drawing) that reinforces/stiffens the rail.

• There is also a "shelf" ("C" in my drawing) that is horizontal — perpendicular to the rail — there to more or less keep stuff from falling behind the rail.

• A "whitewood" 1 x 2 ("D" in my drawing) is also behind the rail simply to give the shelf something to attach to. Hopefully the edge-view in my drawing makes the layering clear.

• I did not detail the passenger's side bed rail. In dimension it is identical to the driver's side, but the placement of the holes is not consistent with the driver's side.

• Also, in the drawing, placement of the holes is approximate.

Finally, the reason the rail is as tall as it is: obviously I wanted to tie into the run of holes beneath the "window" recess for structural support. But I also wanted to take advantage of the widest area between the van sides for my east/west bed. Because of the rounded bottom corners of the recess, had I dropped the bed a few inches I would have been restricted in how wide the bed could be. So I had to get it high enough to clear the narrow bottom of the recess. Make sense?
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post #65 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:27:PM
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Looks great, been looking at yours and silver dragon design as I consider mine.

I am thinking I'll want to make my bed higher than the chamfer corner at the rear of the window opening, both for bed length and garage space.

Are you isolating the wood from the metal at all? I just ordered a bunch of 1/8" neoprene in 2 varieties for isolation based on what I read in other threads.

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post #66 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:17:AM Thread Starter
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> Are you isolating the wood from the metal at all?

No. Am I going to regret it?

I guess I have not seen the threads.

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post #67 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:21:AM Thread Starter
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Thought I should grab a photo from above to show the stiffener + shelf. This is the 1½" rail the bed will ride on.
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post #68 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:48:AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCalhoun View Post
> Are you isolating the wood from the metal at all?

No. Am I going to regret it?

I guess I have not seen the threads.
I am new at this so I can't say from experience, I have read that if you don't isolate the wood from the metal with an intermediary or keep it from touching the metal with an air gap it can squeak. The volume/frequency/likelihood is unknown to me though.


I'm the kind of person who tracks down every little rattle in my car so I'm going to design in the gap/padding. I have read that both neoprene and ez-cool work in this application.

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post #69 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:48:AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCalhoun View Post
> Are you isolating the wood from the metal at all?

No. Am I going to regret it?

I guess I have not seen the threads.
A good chance you may regret it. The unibody construction makes it a near certainty there is "flexing" that causes movement the wood tends to squeal about. I was warned by one of the early threads I read in which the OP described having to disassemble and reassemble his wooden bed solution because of how squeaky his turned out to be. I used 1/8" polyethylene foam between every single thing attached to the van whether it was wood or 80/20. I consider it to have richly paid off.

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post #70 of 75 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 12:54:PM
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I came up with the above YinzerMoto idea to neatly attach 2x4 rails to my walls, to which my build will be attached to. I used threaded rod and a bench grinder to make my little screw-in points. My strategy was to mark the two outer holes, drill them out, and then do the inner holes. I drilled oversized holes and used large fender washers to make lining things up a lot easier.
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