I have a MR Passenger van that I converted.
For different reasons, I didn't want to make holes in my roof but needed a little bit of AC when plugged in so I mounted a portable unit under the bed in the rear and vented the exhaust heat out thru the wiring access hole that already exists in rear supports right next to the tail light.
With some internal sealing via aluminum tape, I was able to direct the air flow out thru the bottom of the rear bumper using existing holes. I had to pull out a 6" x 4" rubber plug in the bumper but otherwise I had to no holes to drill for this experiment.
I directed the drain flow out thru a little gap I cut in the rear door rubber although you could just go straight thru the floor to but I haven't had any issues with my install.
Behavior after 5 months:
1. 10k btu wont save you in the 95F+ heat in direct sunlight unless you REALLY insulate up the van, it merely gives you a spot to cool off without idling the vehicle.
2. At night however, its great. It keeps the bed area quite comfortable, of course, your mileage may vary.
3. I use this only when plugged into shore power for now. A genny would run it just fine at 1600 watts though.
I used this unit for a couple of reasons.
1. Its 110vac, I could someday run it from a large battery bank I suspect.
2. Its short, at 21" it fits nicely under the bed.
3. Its quite reasonably priced.
4. Has a remote although I'm going to have to relocate the control panel... its on the top side of the unit.
1. The control panel on the top of the unit is removable and uses just 4 low voltage wires, I'm going to relocated it on the wall next to the bed for ease of use. Its a normal digital thermostat with an IR receiver for the remote.
2. I want to put a vertical diffuser on it, it will help and be only 1ft in length. Right now I'm directing the flow at the bed via 3ft of 4" dryer duct. It works but I loose a lot of the efficiency I think due to the curves.
Good luck sir!