Air Vent vs Air Conditioning: need opinions - Page 3 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 08:39:PM
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Originally Posted by EddieZ View Post
Nice ceiling! Is that AC passing through a 14-inch cutout? That might get someone with an installed rear vent to thinking about swapping in an AC.
Yes the AC uses the same type 14" cutout. It does require internal wood framing for proper clamping the roof unit to the van

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 08:41:PM
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Originally Posted by shadyatbest View Post

......cut.....

Opinions, Experiences and Anecdotes welcome! 🙏

Thanks!
In the south, like Florida or along Gulf Coast, itís not normally comfortable to sleep at night when itís hot and humid.

My previous motorhome had A/C and generator, and our present van a small 5,000 BTU/hr window unit just large enough to cool at night. We normally stay at campgrounds with shore power, and it has worked great for sleeping for over 10 years. Itís enough to get very cold at night, but canít do much cooling during the day when parked in sun.

As stated in other thread, we purchased a small 2200/1800 Watt portable generator just last year so we can boon-dock after football games. We tried it without A/C but it was too hot and humid (~80 F and 90+ relative humidity).

In cooler or dryer weather weíve boon-docked many nights in comfort (we tolerate heat well) without A/C but everyone has a limit. My suggestion is to determine what your camping intentions are (location, temp, etc.) and your personal tolerances to heat. What others like me say wonít apply to you directly IMO. Itís too subjective.

Good luck.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:15:PM
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Originally Posted by WhereDoIgoFromHere View Post
I'm planning a build right now and am going to put http://stores.12voltairconditioning....-not-included/



Insulate well and with 325 Watts of solar I'm hoping to be able to run this all day long in 90 degree temps and have a full charge on the battery if I'm not using anything else. It's expensive but I hate noisy air conditioners.

Nice unit that appears fairly efficient, but the specs show 45 Amps at 12 Volts, which is 540 Watts. Solar shouldnít keep up.

Specs suggest EER near 15 which is excellent if accurate.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:02:AM
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We produce patent pending adapters for placing all brands of air conditioners on the roofs of vans. The adapters provide a flat level surface, stabilize the roof sheetmetal and spread out the load. Plus also raise the seal above any pooling water on the roof. We also include shims for the pads on the rear of the AC so they don't dent the roof and the air conditioner sits level. We offer PVC framing strips to further support and box out the 14x14 hole on the inside so the clamp ring has something solid to bear on. We do not recommend using wood because it is likely that there will be moisture near the opening and we don't want anything organic that can promote mold growth.

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We even produce these for the curved roof of Airstream trailers.
Below is a Dometic Penguin installed on a 1994 Excella


Below. Adapter and shim installed, ready for membrane sealant and then placing the AC.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 12:10:PM
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
Nice unit that appears fairly efficient, but the specs show 45 Amps at 12 Volts, which is 540 Watts. Solar shouldnít keep up.

Specs suggest EER near 15 which is excellent if accurate.

Sorry, I posted the wrong link. http://stores.12voltairconditioning....-not-included/ 38 nominal amps--480 watts. My worst case heat transfer is 2000 watts per hour. The unit has a 2 speed fan. I hope to set it up on a thermostat and just leave the fan on low. With 400 AH of lithium hopefully I will be ok. If not I'll head further north. My other big hope is that this unit will operate quietly in the background.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:43:PM
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The promise that DC air conditioners offer is that they can vary speed easily and slow down to just meet cooling requirement. This is most important at night because load should be a small fraction of load during middle of a sunny day, which is typically the condition used for sizing the A/C. If a van needs an 8,000 BTU/hr A/C, at night it probably needs less than 4,000 BTU/hr (especially later into night). By running at partial load, combined with less cooling load, electrical power requirement can drop off significantly.

Manufacturers could accomplish much of the same with an alternating current compressor if only they used a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) to reduce speed and cooling capacity, but that adds cost and is just now becoming more popular to save energy. The problem with RV air conditioners is that they generally donít run enough hours to save enough energy to pay for the electrical upgrade. However, for people who want or need to run off batteries, the A/Cís energy savings affects the cost of batteries, chargers, solar, etc. far more than the cost of electricity if plugged in. Thatís why we are seeing more RV air conditioners targeting very high efficiency. Reducing electrical cooling power in half can also reduce battery bank size by nearly half in some applications.
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