Ford Transit USA Forum banner

Brake calipers

58K views 34 replies 16 participants last post by  Jonny 
#1 ·
I'm doing the rear pads on my 2015 transit 350 xlt and am having problems getting the calipers to compress.
The few times I have done brakes I was able to compress them with a C clamp, not this time.
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I can't tell ya what to do in regards to the calipers, but I'm sure a few dudes will come in here with something.

What I curious about, is your new pads. Are you going with stock or aftermarket?

The dust with these stock pads would be acceptable if it was just plain ridiculous, but it's WAY beyond that. If you don't keep them clean it'll actually stain the alloy wheels!

I'd be very interested in the dust performance (and performance overall) of an aftermarket brand. I've only got 6000 miles on mine so I'll tolerate them until they need replacement or if someone around here can throw down some info on something besides stock.

That info is lacking here...a couple guys said they went with aftermarket pads but when pressed for details they disappeared.

Good luck with the calipers.
 
#3 · (Edited)
If the C clamp doesn't work I think the only option is bleeding some fluid and re-filling afterward.

I've heard from a few sources that the C clamp route can potentially cause a good bit of harm anyway, for whatever that's worth.

Maybe alternatively you can coast to a rest where you need but I doubt that will help much...

Not sure if this method works on the Transit...

Open the fluid reservoir...you might need to get a turkey baster and suck some of the fluid out so you don't overflow. DON'T let it overflow, brake fluid is very corrosive to paint.
 
#5 · (Edited)
You need a tool to turn the piston. They do not compress. Maybe a glance at the manual would be useful. The two sides behave differently. Look for arrows on the caliper. I think I posted some images for whitedog a while back. Might be in the service section of the forum.

From the manual:
NOTE: The arrow on the brake caliper housing indicates the direction the piston is rotated when retracting the piston into the brake caliper housing. Rotate the RH caliper piston counter clockwise and the LH caliper piston clockwise and make sure the notch on the piston is aligned with the bump on the brake caliper housing before installing the brake caliper. A moderate to heavy force toward the caliper piston must be applied. If sufficient force is not applied, the internal park brake mechanism clutch cone will not engage and the piston will not compress.

If installing new brake pads, retract the brake caliper pistons into the brake caliper bore.
Use the General Equipment: Brake Caliper Piston Retractor
 
#12 ·
Old thread, but I'd like to add something.
I have already changed the rear pads on my T-250, using the cube, and yes, it was a total PITA. This weekend, I couldn't get the parking brake mechanism to engage on my T-350.
Autozone online showed the rental tool in stock at my local store, but it wasn't. I ordered the Amazon tool.
The Autozone tool looks like it only spins in one direction to compress(?). The ones from Amazon come with 2 screw clamps, left and right. Since the left and right pistons spin in different directions, it looks like that would make a difference. Does it? Thanks.
 
#16 ·
I've got a question for you guys regarding the brake pads...

My '16 has 25K and the factory warranty expires mid January. I put on new tires yesterday and the rear pads are nearly gone. Rotors aren't pretty, either. I've never had brakes wear out so quickly.

Any luck with Ford covering this under warranty? I'll call a dealership today and inquire...
 
#21 ·
My van wasn't affected by the backward caliper thing, it was built after that.

When I was around here a few years ago, I recall some guys having their rear brakes tank a lot sooner than mine did and Ford replaced them...I couldn't recall the details, hence my inquiry.

I made a couple phone calls and found out the deal...the brakes are warrantied for one year or 18K. I would have "gotten lucky" if I'd kept an eye on them.
 
#22 · (Edited)
the brakes are warrantied for one year or 18K.
When you say "brakes are warrantied", did that mean the pads or the calipers?

Brake pads should have a replacement warranty for defects. Don't know if wear after a year would be a 'defect' vs them telling you 'you shouldn't brake so hard'.

The majority of the cost of changing out pads and rotors is labor. The parts are relatively cheap in comparison. So you didn't lose much money even if you would have been quick enough for the warranty.
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
After the ford dealer gave me a $1100 quote for rear rotor and pad replacement I installed the PowerStop Z36. But....I requested they check for the reversed bracket...they said they were not reversed....lazy me didn't verify their findings. Short story long...after taking everything apart, I think to myself...better check those brackets. Argggg, they were reversed....probably could have got brakes covered from ford had it not been taken apart. So....check those brackets before you take everything apart...you might save some coin. Also, the PowerStop rotors and pads are sweeeet! The pads MUST be seated correctly to work well....follow the directions and enjoy.
 
#29 ·
I know it’s been said before, but the rear brake job is not hard and taking the axles out is easy-peazy and only adds a few minutes to the task.
0. Watch a couple youtubes of the brake job process.
1. Make sure you have the proper rotary tool to twist in the pistons (Dont use that stupid block they sell at the parts store) most parts stores rent the proper one for free or you can buy at HF for about 60 bucks.
2. Check the brackets...ford may be on the hook for the job.
3. Swith #2 up to the #1 spot to save time...
4. Even if the brackets are switched, you may want to still do the brakes yourself...don’t think I want the ass-hats at the dealership touching my critical survival parts again.
5. In an hour-thirty...drink a cold one and pat yourself on the back for a job well done....(lord know no one else will...lol)
 
#30 · (Edited)
I am reading up and buying tools before installing my new Power Stop Z36 kit for all wheels. $312.00 for the kit.

I have read these sections multiple times and the bolt/nut torque spec's do not make sense.

Front and Rear Caliper anchor bolts torque to 203 ftlb? Seems way to high when the lug nuts are set to 148 ftlb.

Front Caliper/pad assembly bolts, the ones with the rubber boot 44 ftlb
Rear Caliper/pad assembly nuts, the ones with the rubber boot 23 ftlb

These bolts are the confusing torque spec's

Front 5 TORX bolts 46 ftlb?
Front 5 Bolt that hold the hub on to the Rotor 46 ftlb? or 22 ftlb?

Rear 5 Bolts that hold the Rotor and Hub together 46 ftlb or 22 ftlbs?

22 ftlb seems to low for any type of Rotor/Brake/Hub mounting hardware.

How can you even get a 25 inch torque wrench on the Caliper anchor bolts and press 203 ftlbs while on your back? LoL

Have had to buy an extended length T50 Torx bit for the front Rotor removal. $9.00
Also a set of Brake caliper piston compression discs and related tools. $22.00
25 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar. $22.00
Portable 1/2 inch Drive Impact tool with up to 300ftlb power. Still looking but should be around $250-300.
 

Attachments

#32 · (Edited)
Front and Rear Caliper anchor bolts torque to 203 ftlb? Seems way to high when the lug nuts are set to 148 ftlb.

Front Caliper/pad assembly bolts, the ones with the rubber boot 44 ftlb

These bolts are the confusing torque spec's

Front 5 TORX bolts 46 ftlb?
Front 5 Bolt that hold the hub on to the Rotor 46 ftlb? or 22 ftlb?

Rear 5 Bolts that hold the Rotor and Hub together 46 ftlb or 22 ftlbs?

22 ftlb seems to low for any type of Rotor/Brake/Hub mounting hardware.

Still looking but should be around $250-300.
I didn't check all your torque values but those above are the same as in my 2017 CD FSM. So I'm assuming they're correct.

22ft-lbs sounds low because it is. It's a torque-to-yield bolt and you missed half of the tightening procedure. Good thing you asked. TTY is a much more accurate method of tightening for critical fasteners and the reason you cannot reuse those bolts.

Step 1. Torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Step 2. Turn an additional 90 degrees.

The FSM isn't clear to me and I haven't done a rotor replacement to see how it's set up but the 5 torx and 5 hex bolts appear to be holding on separate things, thus different torque values. So the 46 ft-lbs and the 22 ft-lb, 90 degree values are correct.

The tool cost will presumably be amortized over multiple brake jobs and they can be used for other repairs. For all your friends with Transits.
 
#31 · (Edited)
D**n!! I have the reversed Calipers brackets as shown in the attached pictures. The picture got rotated 90 degrees but that is actually the TOP side of the caliper.

Since I am replacing all of my rear Brake parts, Rotors, Pads, Clips, rubber boot, are there any other parts I need to correct the reversed Caliper issue.

I have to remove the Caliper and Pads anyway so I guess it should be easy to correct this issue.
Also, look at how badly the Rotors are worn at 60,000 miles.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Eiko
#35 ·
I'm doing the rear pads on my 2015 transit 350 xlt and am having problems getting the calipers to compress. The few times I have done brakes I was able to compress them with a C clamp, not this time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Need an rear brake master cylinder tool. Has 2 pins that engage the cylinder allowing it to rotate. Clockwise for the drivers side and counter for the passenger side.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top