Cargo van wall liners and insulation question - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 11:43:PM Thread Starter
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Cargo van wall liners and insulation question

I found what I think was a deal on the cargo van wall liners from van outfitters for 453.00. I have lined the walls with the Mylar aluminum waffle style insulation and am ready to install the wall liners. Would it hurt to fill the deep void behind the panels will fiberglass home style insulation. I want to only do this one time and am hoping some one will comment either way as to if this is a good or bad idea.
The Panels lare really well made and came with the attaching hardware and I have Wenesday off and was planning to install the liners then. Thanks for any and all help. Steve

2015 148 mid roof 3.7

Old car guy
2015 transit 150 148 mid roof 3.7 limited slip cargo

Last edited by Old car guy; 02-29-2016 at 11:46:PM. Reason: Miss spelled words
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 07:53:AM
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I have used R13 pink attic bats in the lower cavities mostly, and for stuffing in the higher cavities. I think your plan to use them behind the plastic panels is fine. There are some who believe it should never be used because of water retention issues. Others have reported success with it. I will keep an eye on the possibility of water saturation but don't expect that here in Arizona.

My vehicle still warms up inside when left standing in 80 degree heat. More insulation is good, just don't pack it in tight.

MY TROUBLED TRANSIT - 2016 T150, MR, RWB, 3.5EB. Delivered 11/15 with major steering, tire, & alignment defects. Had 6+ front-end and Sub-Frame alignments. 6 defective tires replaced. Also Steering Rack, 2 Axle Seals, Diff Gasket, Rear Brakes and Rotors, PS Pump, Wet Air Filter, Hi stop-light. Crankcase P Sensor failed at 23,500 kms. To Date, 39 days at Ford Service. See "New Van Didn't Get Far"
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:29:AM
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I used two layers of 1" closed cell foam in the openings above and below the window indents. Covered those with Reflectix. Left about a 1 1/2" air gap between the Reflectix and the painted 1/4" plywood wall covering. Put 1/8" closed cell foam on back of the plywood and used nylon plastic bolts. Van is grey so painted panels same color.

The openings above and below the rear window indents were easy as was the bottom opening below the front window indent on driver's side. If I did it again I would probably use Thinsulate above the slider and the high opening on the driver's side. There is a structural tube inside those two openings that makes it more difficult.

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:56:AM
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For insulation, we recommend and supply 3M Thinsulate(TM) sound thermal insulation for vehicles. We stock SM600L which is the thickest grade engineered for vehicles and passes FMVSS 302 flammability test that is required for all materials within 1/2 inch of the occupant space.

We advise against fiberglass since it can release airborne fibers due to vibration. These can collect in the bottom of the wall, trap moisture and possibly block the OEM drain locations.

Thinsulate will provide both sound and thermal insulation in addition to reducing resonance in panels it is in contact with. The fibers are hydrophobic which means they will not absorb moisture. It is easy to install, cuts with ordinary (large) scissors. There is no need to wear a dust mask or protective gear.

Thinsulate(TM) is used by OEMs like Honda and others.

Please PM, email or call for more information or to request a sample. This has been a popular material for DIY and professional van builders.

All the best,

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 11:37:AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hein View Post
For insulation, we recommend and supply 3M Thinsulate(TM) sound thermal insulation for vehicles. We stock SM600L which is the thickest grade engineered for vehicles and passes FMVSS 302 flammability test that is required for all materials within 1/2 inch of the occupant space.

We advise against fiberglass since it can release airborne fibers due to vibration. These can collect in the bottom of the wall, trap moisture and possibly block the OEM drain locations.

Thinsulate will provide both sound and thermal insulation in addition to reducing resonance in panels it is in contact with. The fibers are hydrophobic which means they will not absorb moisture. It is easy to install, cuts with ordinary (large) scissors. There is no need to wear a dust mask or protective gear.

Thinsulate(TM) is used by OEMs like Honda and others.

Please PM, email or call for more information or to request a sample. This has been a popular material for DIY and professional van builders.

All the best,

Hein
Impact, Inc
54l 49O 5O98

Hein, during the process of stuffing the pink batting into my lower panels I had to subject it to much folding and manipulation. I saw no visible debris even after this process. I have also owned previous stick and tin rvs using pink with no sign of debris.

I did leave a 2" gap at the bottom to ensure no wicking or collection of debris would go unnoticed.

Do you have any hard data to support you theory of airborne particles escaping from a contained cavity? I would hate to have to take it all out.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:52:PM
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I used the pink fiberglass on my previous Econoline and can confirm the stuff broke down and would drift around. That being said, I didn't have any sort of barrier other than paneling to keep it from doing that and I drove on bumpy gravel roads quite a bit.
I've got Thinsulate on the Transit and it's a dream to work with by comparison. Great sound insulator too.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 04:32:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old car guy View Post
I found what I think was a deal on the cargo van wall liners from van outfitters for 453.00. I have lined the walls with the Mylar aluminum waffle style insulation and am ready to install the wall liners. Would it hurt to fill the deep void behind the panels will fiberglass home style insulation. I want to only do this one time and am hoping some one will comment either way as to if this is a good or bad idea.
The Panels lare really well made and came with the attaching hardware and I have Wenesday off and was planning to install the liners then. Thanks for any and all help. Steve

2015 148 mid roof 3.7
Can you send a link to their site?
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2016, 12:33:PM
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Has anybody used the recycled denim insulation?

The R rating is pretty good, it doesn't itch, and is priced reasonably.

You can get it in R6.7 or R30 depending on thickness.

In addition, is there a site where the R values area compared to various insulation materials? I see little mentioned of ratings on most.

I'm thinking of using various materials in different locations. Maybe Thinsulate for the roof and then dynamat on the outer panels backed by the denim material in the lower/larger cavities. Depending on the R rating comparison I might even opt for the denim for the roof.

2016 T250 148" MR Cargo 3.2L 3.73 LS all around windows
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2016, 02:20:PM
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Sportsmobile uses some sort of denim.


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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 10:12:AM
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The pink stuff retaining moisture would be a no go for me.

Roxul is a brand you see advertised as safe and sound, or such. Their composition doesn't retain water. Contractors will use it in basements that get wet with no worry about mould as water passes right thru.

Anyhow if you are picking something like a home insulation I would skip the pink and buy the roxul.

2016 T-250 LWB MR Cargo:Ecoboost:3.73 LSDs
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