First oil change, 3.2 PSD 4884 miles - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 10:03:AM Thread Starter
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Post First oil change, 3.2 PSD 4884 miles

It was very, very simple, just like an oil change should be. I did drive it onto a small wooden ramp that I screwed together. It seems that as the years go by, they make the rigs closer to the ground. Anymore, I have such a hard time rolling under them.

So the ramps got the front tires up about 3 inches which was enough room to do everything. I went in from behind the drivers side tire with my drain pan. The plug takes a 13 MM wrench. I loosened it and as I was screwing it out, there was more resistance than there should have been, until I noticed that the sealing Oring was stuck to the pan and I was threading it through that. Since I know that Murphy is always lurkingand I didn't want the Oring to fall into the oil pan as soon as I pulled, the plug, I worked it loose so it would come of when -I- wanted it to.

The oil filter was close enough that once the initial gush of oil was over, I could slide the pan over and continue to catch that oil while also catching the oil from the oil filter. Apparently, at the South Africa plant where they build the engines, they don't believe in putting any lube on the oil filter seal because it squeaked like it was dry. I am using the NAPA Gold oil filter number 7502.

Here is a picture of everything under there:



Put everything back together and tighten the drain plug and it's back on top to fill the oil. I am using Rotella T6 in this and it takes 3 gallons. One thing that I was careful of is filling the oil. Normally, I just pour it in unaided, but with that funky, flexible engine cover thingie, I decided to use a funnel. I happened to have the perfect funnel for the job. It is a Flo Tool Big mouth Funnel Part # 10713. It fit in the fill hole snugly so it wouldn't flop over as I was filling it, it is short enough that I don't have to reach up high to pour in the oil, and it has a big mouth so it fills quickly without having to feather it in to avoid spillage.

I then checked the oil level before starting it. Yes, I do this every time I change the oil. Even though I just put the oil in, I pull the dipstick and make sure I didn't do something stupid like forget to put the plug in. Not that I have ever done that (this week) but it's just a good habit. Then it's into the drivers seat, turn on the key and start the engine. I then watch to be sure the oil light goes off within 10 seconds, back it off of the ramps and shut it down.

I let it sit for a few minutes and recheck the oil. Perfect level, so I note the mileage, put it in the maintenance book, figure when the next LOF will be (at 10,000 miles, then every 10,000 after that) and put that in my book and on a window sticker and I'm done.

The only heartache I had was that the oil drips onto the crossmember as the drain pan finishes draining and as it comes out of the filter. I am thinking about something I have seen someplace. It's a flexible, moldable plastic thing that will drape over the cross member and direct the oil where I want it to go. HERE.

Of course there is more to servicing the van than just changing the oil and filter. There are level checks, brake checks, tire checks, light checks. Yeah. Alot of other stuff that I do while the oil is draining.

I will be changing the fuel filter at the next LOF and I will determine if I can go to 20,000 mile interval. With the small amount of fuel that this thing uses, I bet 20,000 will be just fine.

Edit: I forgot that with the bigger tires, it was actually about 5100 miles.
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Last edited by Whitedog; 01-22-2015 at 02:27:PM.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 12:14:PM
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Whitedog:

Did you fill the oil filter with oil before screwing on?

Done a lot of car work, I head for the kitchen and tear off a piece of aluminum foil and make a down hill drain so the oil does not drip on the cross member.

5000 miles, how much DEF have you used (per tank size in a Transit)
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 12:57:PM Thread Starter
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I have heavy foil I use when I want to cap off something, but I prefer reusable device. I have used filter boxes and lots of stuff, but I like the looks of this funnel thing.

I don't prefill the filter. The first place the oil goes after it leaves the filter is the engine. If there is any contaminates in the oil, and the oil goes in the clean side of the filter, then those contaminates go into the engine. If there are contaminates in the oil and I put it in the pan, the first place it goes is the pump, then the filter which will catch it.

Same thing with the fuel filter.

Thank you for the reminder on the DEF. I put in right at 4.5 gallons with about 5100 miles. So I think that I can figure 1% of the fuel. It's actually just under 1%, but for estimating costs, I like to go a bit high.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-23-2015, 06:56:AM
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That's a clean shiny new engine right there! Been a while since I've gotten to see that....
Still waiting on mine
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 10:05:AM Thread Starter
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Fuel filter change

Well, I did the first fuel filter change on Saturday. What a pain. I didn't do a very good yob, so I'm not going to do a write up yet, but give me five weeks and I'll change it again after another 10,000 miles. I will then go to 20,000 mile intervals.

One of the problems is turning the filter housing. There isn't a hex on the bottom, there is just a bunch of fins on the side of the housing. THe outer diameter of the housing only turn about 2 inches from lock to unlock so it has to have a pretty hefty detent and it has to compress the seal in that little bit of a turn. All of that makes it very difficult to turn. I am trying to find a specific tool at Ford for doing this. Since I have to change the filter 5-6 times a year, it will be worth it to me.

The big thing that I may have screwed up is that the filter twists and snaps into place. But there is a specific orientation for it. On top of the filter is an arrow and there are arrows on the filter housing. I didn't notice this until afterwards.



Notice the three ears. They slip up into the housing, then it turns and locks then the cover goes over it.

On only one of the ears do you see this:



In the top of the cover, there is a shape that I think grabs this little piece and removes the filter as you open the cover.

It's confusing, I know. I will get pictures of everything next time and that will help explain it better.

If you do change the filter before then take note of one important thing: be sure to drain it first.

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 10:54:PM
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Draining

NOTE: Drain fluid into a suitable container.

Turn the drain plug counter clockwise to open. (2 turns)


Turn the ignition to the ON position. Wait for a minimum of 5 seconds, this purges the water and fuel from the filter.

Tighten the drain plug and remove the container.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 10:56:PM
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Bleeding (to be done after filter element change)

Turn the ignition key to the ON position. Wait for 30 seconds.

Start the engine and hold at 1500 rpm.

Wait for 20 seconds.

If the engine is running smoothly, reduce the rpm to idle speed.

Check for fuel leaks.

Switch the engine off.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 10:01:AM Thread Starter
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Reading the instructions is for gurls.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 04:39:PM Thread Starter
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I topped off the DEF today after 6530 miles. I added right at 4 gallons. The last time I filled till I spilled and I did the same this time. At our cost of $1.67 per gallon that is a cost of $6.68.

That's one tenth of a penny per mile.

In post three I said I put in 4.5 gallons after 5100 miles. I will continue to monitor.

The dash said that we were less than half full of DEF.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:19:PM
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Hey Whitedog: Where are you buying DEF for $1.67 and hat's your mpg so far?


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