First oil change, 3.2 PSD 4884 miles - Page 3 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 07:36:PM Thread Starter
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Finally had a decent fuel filter change. This time I lined up the arrows and got one of the locks engaged, but the one CCW from the arrow didn't go in so I rotated it CCW a bit and it fell in along with the other one. From there is was just a matter of tightening it which is really tough. You only turn it a little bit, but that little bit has to pull the seal into place and it's a real bugger.

While under there, I also looked at the transmission drain pan hoping that there was a drain plug on it. Nope. Dropping the sub-frame looks to be an adventure. Three bolts at each rear corned, then a nut on each side just ahead of the front wheel center-line, then maybe a couple of small fasteners on each side at the bumper. I am thinking of leaving those last two until the end and see if I can drop the sub-frame enough get the pan out. I don't know if any hoses, tube or wires will need to be loosened or removed.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:11:PM
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Finally had a decent fuel filter change. This time I lined up the arrows and got one of the locks engaged, but the one CCW from the arrow didn't go in so I rotated it CCW a bit and it fell in along with the other one. From there is was just a matter of tightening it which is really tough. You only turn it a little bit, but that little bit has to pull the seal into place and it's a real bugger.

While under there, I also looked at the transmission drain pan hoping that there was a drain plug on it. Nope. Dropping the sub-frame looks to be an adventure. Three bolts at each rear corned, then a nut on each side just ahead of the front wheel center-line, then maybe a couple of small fasteners on each side at the bumper. I am thinking of leaving those last two until the end and see if I can drop the sub-frame enough get the pan out. I don't know if any hoses, tube or wires will need to be loosened or removed.
I thought I read here that the transmission service was at 150,000 miles and was a suck out procedure versus dropping the pan. You might want to check on that.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 01:34:AM
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Finally had a decent fuel filter change. This time I lined up the arrows and got one of the locks engaged, but the one CCW from the arrow didn't go in so I rotated it CCW a bit and it fell in along with the other one. From there is was just a matter of tightening it which is really tough. You only turn it a little bit, but that little bit has to pull the seal into place and it's a real bugger.

While under there, I also looked at the transmission drain pan hoping that there was a drain plug on it. Nope. Dropping the sub-frame looks to be an adventure. Three bolts at each rear corned, then a nut on each side just ahead of the front wheel center-line, then maybe a couple of small fasteners on each side at the bumper. I am thinking of leaving those last two until the end and see if I can drop the sub-frame enough get the pan out. I don't know if any hoses, tube or wires will need to be loosened or removed.
Some hoses need to move. Mostly the power steering. On yours the regen pump and plumbing and the urea tube also need to move. But as plhalle said, there is no service called out on the filter, just a machine fluid flush. I can see where you'd want to with the miles you put on it though.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 04:55:AM
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Finally had a decent fuel filter change. This time I lined up the arrows and got one of the locks engaged, but the one CCW from the arrow didn't go in so I rotated it CCW a bit and it fell in along with the other one. From there is was just a matter of tightening it which is really tough. You only turn it a little bit, but that little bit has to pull the seal into place and it's a real bugger.

While under there, I also looked at the transmission drain pan hoping that there was a drain plug on it. Nope. Dropping the sub-frame looks to be an adventure. Three bolts at each rear corned, then a nut on each side just ahead of the front wheel center-line, then maybe a couple of small fasteners on each side at the bumper. I am thinking of leaving those last two until the end and see if I can drop the sub-frame enough get the pan out. I don't know if any hoses, tube or wires will need to be loosened or removed.
You might recall I commented on that trans pan removal when you were posting about changing the radiator-
One other thing that has to come loose is the steering column to the rack and pinion-
Also there are $84 worth of nuts and bolts you aren't supposed to reuse.

To the naysayers about tran fluid changes etc- I've never had to replace an engine but I have spent many thousands on trans replacements/rebuilds over the years..at least 3.
My trans fluid gets changed- I don't care what Ford recommends.
The filled for life BS is just that! Define "for life"? Does the life end when the trans fails?

For awhile Ford was installing transmission bypass filters on, IIRC, the 4R100, which is basically a re-engineered E4OD.
I tracked down who made those units (http://www.ntz-filter.com/) carefully looked at the specs and cleaned out several Ford warehouses of those entire filter assemblies. Interestingly I got them for less as Ford NOS than direct from the manufacturer.
One will be going on my Transit for sure. Been running one on our Toyota FJ Cruiser for many miles- with the bypass filter there is no need to change the internal filter- it catches stuff far smaller than the pan filter ever could.

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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 09:58:AM Thread Starter
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Budsky, your comments are what got me thinking about that pan. The "scheduled" maintenance for the oil change is at 150,000. I am thinking that I may suck out the oil every 100,000 miles. I won't be getting out as much as with dropping the pan and filter which is why I am thinking of doing it early. Also, a bypass filter is a good idea. Lastly, I want to take a look at a new filter to see what it looks like. Often times, transfilters are pretty coarse and rely on the magnet to catch anything ferrous. Budsky, how many of those filter do you have?

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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 12:20:PM
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I'd have to look- I originally bought them to install one on each of our 3 vehicles and both of my son's vehicles, plus maybe another one or two.
Only ever got one installed. Amazing how time slips away- especially when I was working 50-60 hours a week! Retired now so need to get back on that project.
NTZ sells a similar unit that I believe uses the same element- sort of looks like a small roll of toilet paper. I pulled the element on the Toyota after 50,000 miles or so and it was a little dirty but not bad. Never had the pan off and probably never will- the bypass filter catches stuff that easily passes right through the OEM filter on the Aisin transmission Toyota uses in the FJC.
I installed the filter on the Toyota as part of a trans cooler install for towing.

I do drop about 3 qts of fluid, all you can get on a pan drain, on the Toyota every 10k miles and replace- keeps the additives etc freshened up.

"Beluga" 2015 350HD 3.2D, 3.73, EL, HR.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 01:53:PM
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Diesel fuel filter change

Thanks for the posts and advice. From your experience some questions. 1)any value in draining the fuel from the filter to see how much water is present to help to know if I should change the filter or just drain the fuel to see if water is present. I have 18200 miles and service book seems to advise up to 30000 miles if no "water in fuel light" comes on. Dealer suggested every other oil change but they want $152 for fuel filter change. I have ordered the filter and looking for advice as to how far to go before I attempt the change. 2) The hard part is not knowing qualiity of fuel. Been trying to avoid biodiesel except in midwest where there did not seem to be an option.

VanGo: 2015 3.2L i5 PSD, HR, EWB 148inch, 3.31 LS, SRW, side curtain airbags, engine block heater,
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 05:41:PM
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I found a tool for removing the fuel filter. It comes from England and fairly cheap, supposed to be for the Transit fuel filter. You use it with a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar for torque. There's a guy in the U.S. who duplicated the idea but he wants too much. If anyone is interested let me know and I'll share the contact info.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 07:04:PM
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I found a tool for removing the fuel filter. It comes from England and fairly cheap, supposed to be for the Transit fuel filter. You use it with a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar for torque. There's a guy in the U.S. who duplicated the idea but he wants too much. If anyone is interested let me know and I'll share the contact info.
Please post it up.
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