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What did you do to your Transit today?

786K views 3K replies 427 participants last post by  LumberJeff 
#1 ·
To start off this thread, I ran rear speaker wire down the driver A pillar to connect to head unit and speakers at some point in the future. I also ran a segment of 7-wire sprinkler control cable through the A pillar with short term thoughts of a on/off/door switch replacing the cargo light fuse (with fuse in line) mounted by the slider. And long term thoughts of controlling or powering other things in the cargo area.
 
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#42 ·
I installed a discreet SPDT on/off/on switch for the cargo area lights.

On the passenger B pillar so it can be reached from either the slider or long reach from driver seat. Cut the switched ground (WH/BLU stripe) that activates the cargo lights, sent it through the switch, and added a constant ground to the other pole of the switch. Now I can turn off the lights, set them to activate as normal, or turn them on even after timer turns off.

I may change to DPDT switches later so I can have multiple switches that act as 3-way or 4-way switches. One switch is fine for now and probably ever.
 

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#47 ·
Just finished installing 2nd 160 watt solar panel, for a total of 320 watts. with my panels at 54'' width I think I will have to fabricate a fairing to eliminate wind noise at freeway speeds, always something to do !!

MM
 
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#48 ·
I only measured and remeasured the rear opening and tried to fabricate the swing area of a platform on a cheap lift I was thinking of buying so I can put my chair into the back.

The mobility upfitters and companies gouge the disabled... the deer lift I found is under $200 but the mobility lift is more like $2000 (and that is unoccupied lifting). :(

http://cdnll.discountramps.com/images/s/viking-solutions-swivelift-hitch-mounted-lift.jpg

I have been trying to figure if this will work...if I can replace the winch with a better one with better ratio too... for the back opening of my van so I don't have to have anything mounted.

So I measure and remeasure and appease my analysis paralysis needs for another day.
 
#52 ·
I installed a rear camera and 7" monitor. Took 3-4 HOURS to run the wire, mainly because of the stupid rear door rubber connector. I put on the included license plate camera. It sucks, I'll eventually put a CCD camera up by the 3rd brake light, if I can find a 100-120 degree angle one.
 
#55 ·
This past week I finally got into that vault they call a battery box. Attach the pigtails for a battery tender and Ran the wire out the rear of the box through a Groove another wiring harness uses. Four or five inches stick out at the rear where can I hook up the tender. Was able to use the extra studs on the battery cable lugs after getting the correct nuts at Ace Hardware. Did not remove driver seat.

After sitting without a charger since mid September, the battery showed 12.58 volts with a multimeter. That was before charging with the tender. After 24 hours I checked the voltage and it was 12.98 volts. After getting the steady green light, every time I check it it is at 12.44 volts. Battery tender was disconnected every time I checked with the multimeter. Do not understand why this is at 12.44 , but that's where it's at.

I have the single battery, with the smaller output alternator. It is not agm.

When it comes time to replace the battery will I be able to use an AGM battery?

Suitcase
 
#57 ·
I think I know why this is happening. I don't want to lead you down the wrong path so give me a day and I'll have mine installed. I'll run some tests and see If I get the same results. I started a thread called Battery Tenders and I'll post my results there.
 
#63 ·
I started using battery tenders about 15 years ago. Have had up to 11 units at the same time. Motorcycles, riding mowers, other vehicles and extra batteries. have five plugged in at this time.
Pretty sure that the blinking green light means 80% charge. Solid green light means fully charged. Could be wrong.
They do extend battery life quite a bit if used from the get-go.
 
#65 ·
You are correct. at 80% it comes out of bulk and goes to absorb. When it's solid green it's in float mode and should maintain a battery with no load at 13.2v.. However, our batteries always have a load on them. The load is small if the van is not disturbed but open one door and it jumps up to a pretty substantial amount even if you don't have the cargo lights. I'm in and out a lot so if I didn't have the tender, I'd have a dead battery in about a week.
 
#66 ·
Mine sat in my driveway yesterday and today. Last Saturday it went from Chaska, MN to Merrifield, MN. Then to a delivery in East Moline, Il. From there to Williamsburg, IA and deliver to Iron Ridge, WI. From Iron Ridge, WI to Oshkosh, WI delivering to East Moline, Il, again. Then to Marion, IA delivering to Ft. Smith, AR. Then to Conway, AR delivering to Waterloo, IA and home.
 
#70 · (Edited)
Well, it was actually more like two days ago... We bought one! We picked up our 2017 HR Long Transit on Saturday. My wife and I are in the game, everybody! Our plan is to do a simple conversion for weekend camping getaways in the mountains of Tennessee and surrounding states.

Thanks to all of those that contribute and make this forum a great resource!
 
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