Alternator output - Page 4 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:52:AM
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My system is smaller. I have a 1000 watt Samlex pure sine inverter powered by the Transit. The output is sent to the 1000 watt Magnum MMS1012 house inverter/charger/transfer switch. The maximum charge rate of the Magnum is 50 amps.

It is very true that you lose about 30% of the power to heat. 85% eff. in the Samlex inverter and 85% eff. in the Magnum charger. You go from 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC and then back to 12 volts DC. The question is how much loss in MPG does that cause? Suspect that it can not be measured.

In my case the primary method of charging is the 300 watt solar panel. The charging from the backup vehicle powered inverter is almost never required. Have not needed to use it in last couple of years. So the efficiency cost is zero if the system is not used.

Do not understand your math. 100 amps of charging would be 100/.85 = 118 amps/.85 =138 amps. I would never even need that amount of charging for my application.

Nice to have a backup method of charging in case it is ever needed. Do use the 120 volt output from the vehicle powered inverter to run the 12v/120v refrigerator while driving and charging computer stuff. Having 120 volt power available while I drive allows me to charge or heat shower water or heat the back of the van with an electric baseboard heater.

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.

Last edited by orton; 01-09-2017 at 12:17:PM.
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post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 12:13:PM
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Regarding Hall or Temp sensor, I was told it was a temp sensor but it could be a current sensor. I don't know exactly how Ford is using the info it's getting from it, I only know what they told me and it may well be that the tech dummied up on me.

Re using an inverter to run a battery charger - I originally was on that path but then realized that the cost was about the same as a B-B and I could not find a fully automatic charger that I liked. FYI, I got the Pro-B IP67 which is water proof because I figured if it didn't work in the Van I could always use it in the boat.

In my setup, nothing runs from the vehicles battery unless the engine is running. Once the engine stops, everything switches automatically back to the house. Technically, when the engine is running the negative side of the vehicle and house are combined through the B-B and this I find acceptable.

You may have read in my other posts that I also installed a timer relay. This is used to give the vehicle time to recover from the starting process. I have it set for 3 minutes and then the B-B comes on and the Fridge switches over. You can feel the engine load change when it kicks over.

2016 T250, MR, LWB, 3.5L EB, 3.73 LS, Sync, Tow Package.
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post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:53:PM
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I have a volt meter on the dash

Mine shows 14.8 volts DC
I also checked it by plugging a multi meter into one of the 12v cig lighter sockets

2015 Transit 250 - Medium roof Cargo Van
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