Floor build - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 05:20:PM Thread Starter
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Floor build

I'm starting on my van floor build today and I wanted to get opinions before I did any cutting. My main use for the van is for Skiiing so I'm going with a more aggressive insulation plan for the floor. My plan is to use 1/2" EVA foam cutouts for the depressions in the floor, followed by a 1" EVA foam pad. This should provide good sound deadening as well has a ~ R6 insulation. On top of this I'm planning to put 1/2" marine grade plywood, clamped down by brackets mounted on the tie down D ring bolts. Liberal application of great stuff spray foam, and then silicone should get the plywood sealed in. Finally I'll use a layer of foam backed vinyl flooring for aesthetics. I should also note that I'm planning to glue all the layers together (in a way that lets me still separate the plywood sections) but not glue down to the metal floor. The plan being that if I need to take them out, I can just cut the silicone/great stuff on the edges and lift the plywood sections out.

I've read a number posts about floor builds and I think I'm on the more "overkill" side of insulation, but I don't have any extra sound deadening layers, like MLV, in my layer cake relying mostly on the EVA foam.

So questions:
- Do I need extra sound deadening?
- I got a deal on EVA which is really close to the minicell that is often recommended (EVA is leftover from a dance studio floor install). Are there any gotcha with this? I haven't seen it in any other builds so I'm wondering if there's something I've missed.
- Is it better to avoid gluing everything into the floor? Will I get rattling? Some other problem? I'm just curious what the experiences have been.

Thanks,

-R

Last edited by radley; 12-03-2016 at 05:21:PM. Reason: Missing word, added negative to make meaning clear.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 06:42:PM
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I suspect there are no two floors alike on this forum. Mine will be neoprene in the floor valleys, a layer of 1/8" polyethylene over that to keep the next layer, MLV, from contacting the metal floor tops, 1/2" marine grade Okuome plywood on top of that, then vinyl flooring, probably the kind they call coin something. I'm after sound deadening more than thermal and because my van is medium height, trying not to raise the floor too much.

Some of the people with high vans have been the most aggressive about thermal insulating their floors.

* - When i first began I was thinking like you about not wanting to over commit on making the floor permanent, but reality slowly came to me - when tango foxtrot am I ever going to pull the floor up? Not if I sold it, not if they told me there was gold beneath it, not if I needed to hide a body under it. The only reason I could think of is if I wanted to somehow get that outrageously expensive plywood back but even then having bonded the vinyl floor to it would ruin the incentive.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 07:22:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radley View Post
I'm starting on my van floor build today and I wanted to get opinions before I did any cutting. My main use for the van is for Skiiing so I'm going with a more aggressive insulation plan for the floor. My plan is to use 1/2" EVA foam cutouts for the depressions in the floor, followed by a 1" EVA foam pad. This should provide good sound deadening as well has a ~ R6 insulation. On top of this I'm planning to put 1/2" marine grade plywood, clamped down by brackets mounted on the tie down D ring bolts. Liberal application of great stuff spray foam, and then silicone should get the plywood sealed in. Finally I'll use a layer of foam backed vinyl flooring for aesthetics. I should also note that I'm planning to glue all the layers together (in a way that lets me still separate the plywood sections) but not glue down to the metal floor. The plan being that if I need to take them out, I can just cut the silicone/great stuff on the edges and lift the plywood sections out.

I've read a number posts about floor builds and I think I'm on the more "overkill" side of insulation, but I don't have any extra sound deadening layers, like MLV, in my layer cake relying mostly on the EVA foam.

So questions:
- Do I need extra sound deadening?
- I got a deal on EVA which is really close to the minicell that is often recommended (EVA is leftover from a dance studio floor install). Are there any gotcha with this? I haven't seen it in any other builds so I'm wondering if there's something I've missed.
- Is it better to avoid gluing everything into the floor? Will I get rattling? Some other problem? I'm just curious what the experiences have been.

Thanks,


Sounds like you will have ~1.5 inches of material above the metal ribs. If that is the case you won't be able to access the D ring bolt holes.

I put 1/2 inch AC plywood on my floor and although I can still see the D ring holes I can't get a bolt in them, there is not enough clearance.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 07:25:PM
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Is EVA a closed cell foam? You want closed cell.

I just used a liquid sealant around the perimeter and in the plywood joints. Great Stuff would just make a mess.

Just paint the plywood.

The Ford tie down bolt holes are at different heights. I used an angle bolted to the tie down but had to put the angle under the plywood due to the location of the tapped hole. I would do it different next time. Would first bolt a 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum bar to the tie down threaded hole with a flathead screw. Then higher up on the bar I would have tapped holes for the hold down angles.

What I did for a floor:

http://www.ortontransit.info/testfloor.php

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 12:03:PM
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Good idea Orton to put an extension on the d ring holes. I was able to install mine before the flooring went down, the results work but leave a good sized space around it. Finish trim will be a challenge.

There are a million floor options, mine is cld tiles between the ribs, 1/2" closed cell foam/mlv, two sheets of 1/4" melamine then oak. I ended up about 1 5/8 over the ribs for finished height.

It is really nice to have the floor not super cold for camping, it makes a big difference. Also, you will not regret making your floor quiet, the only downside of a whisper quiet floor is it lets you hear all the other noise in your van.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 12:49:PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by morey View Post
Sounds like you will have ~1.5 inches of material above the metal ribs. If that is the case you won't be able to access the D ring bolt holes.

I put 1/2 inch AC plywood on my floor and although I can still see the D ring holes I can't get a bolt in them, there is not enough clearance.
Looks like I'm going to have to leave an access cutout for the D rings. Hand carve some foam and glue to to a plywood cutout that can be dropped in to keep it level with the rest of the floor. I'd really like to keep the D rings usable. (I have a motorcycle that I'd love to be able to move with the van.)

-R
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 12:51:PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by orton View Post
Is EVA a closed cell foam? You want closed cell.

I just used a liquid sealant around the perimeter and in the plywood joints. Great Stuff would just make a mess.

Just paint the plywood.

The Ford tie down bolt holes are at different heights. I used an angle bolted to the tie down but had to put the angle under the plywood due to the location of the tapped hole. I would do it different next time. Would first bolt a 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum bar to the tie down threaded hole with a flathead screw. Then higher up on the bar I would have tapped holes for the hold down angles.

What I did for a floor:

http://www.ortontransit.info/testfloor.php
Yes. It's closed cell foam. (2 lb close cell).

-R
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 04:05:PM
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2 inch closed cell purple board. The white polystyrene foam is very dusty when cut and breaks down easier. I had started with that but removed it because I was worried about breathing the particles.

Build a simple 2x2 wood frame. Buy 2x3 and rip the wide side to 2 inches. I installed rubber strips under the wood in the low portion of the corrugated flooor. This was done to prevent squeaking and to prevent the floor framing from scratching the floor paint. Top it with 3/8 plywood painted on all sides with exterior paint.
I just left the floor system floating. It also conceales the seat rails nicely.

I reused the OEM pvc flooring. The corrugated denium backing peels off by hand. Then top your plywood with the OEM pvc.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 07:10:PM
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Originally Posted by orton View Post
Is EVA a closed cell foam? You want closed cell.

I just used a liquid sealant around the perimeter and in the plywood joints. Great Stuff would just make a mess.


http://www.ortontransit.info/testfloor.php
Orton, went through your blog (again) to see what liquid sealant you used.

Do you mean Loctite PL S40?

I'm not sure if you drilled any fasteners through the floor of the van as did Stan but, whether or not using elevator bolts or T-bolts to anchor the floor, wouldn't it be good to drill holes into the floor in all chosen spots before putting in any kind of insulation? Then the holes can be smoothed and rust proofed.

After plywood installed, easy to find pre-drilled holes and go from there.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 06:09:PM Thread Starter
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After a lot of messing around with space heaters and lost weekends the subfloor is in. Only new wrinkle was that I embedded 1 in slats of of foamed PVC under the point where I will add my bed supports. This was just to avoid any dimpling into the foam from the weight. The other thing that you can see is I left cut outs for the tie downs so that I can get to the bolts if needed.
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-R
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