Floor build - Page 2 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 06:48:PM
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Originally Posted by BabyBuffy View Post
Orton, went through your blog (again) to see what liquid sealant you used.

Do you mean Loctite PL S40?

I'm not sure if you drilled any fasteners through the floor of the van as did Stan but, whether or not using elevator bolts or T-bolts to anchor the floor, wouldn't it be good to drill holes into the floor in all chosen spots before putting in any kind of insulation? Then the holes can be smoothed and rust proofed.

After plywood installed, easy to find pre-drilled holes and go from there.
Sorry I missed this.

The sealant I used was PLS40.

I only drilled two additional 11/32" holes through the floor. The two holes were in the back close to the van centerline. Did use two existing holes at the slider step. The rest of the floor hold downs were the D-ring bolts at the bottom of the walls.

Wanted a thermal break between the van body and the aluminum 80/20 floor structure. So plywood bolted to the van and then in different locations the 80/20 was bolted to the plywood. Plywood is the insulator. Used elevator bolts because they have a flat head. The elevator bolts were located above the 1/2" closed cell foam that was installed between the floor corrugation ribs. Did not want the elevator bolt heads contacting the steel floor. Besides the 1/2" closed cell foam in the floor valleys, the 1" rigid polyiso was fitted between the 80/20 floor structure extrusions. Used 1 1/2" 80/20 so bottom layer was 1" polyiso, middle layer was 1/16" fiberglass shower wall material and the top surface is 3/8" black gym mat. Both the polyiso and the gym mat were slightly thicker than nominal dimensions so had to change from 1/8" between them to 1/16" to keep sandwich flush with the top of the 80/20..

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 08:48:AM
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Can you stand up in the van with that thick of a floor?

2015 Transit 250 - Medium roof Cargo Van
My build videos are here

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 09:44:AM
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Can you stand up in the van with that thick of a floor?
Depends on your height and the roof height of the van. Go to a dealer and measure what would work for you.

I wanted to buy the medium roof but could not make it work with an insulated floor or to get enough height between the bed platform and the bottom of the upper cabinets so I did not bump my head sitting up in bed.

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 09:46:AM
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Originally Posted by orton View Post
Depends on your height and the roof height of the van. Go to a dealer and measure what would work for you.

I wanted to buy the medium roof but could not make it work with an insulated floor or to get enough height between the bed platform and the bottom of the upper cabinets so I did not bump my head sitting up in bed.
On my medium roof van, and me being around 5' 8", I could not stand up with that thick of a floor
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2015 Transit 250 - Medium roof Cargo Van
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 10:11:AM
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Originally Posted by EL34xyz View Post
On my medium roof van, and me being around 5' 8", I could not stand up with that thick of a floor
Neither could I at 5'-10", so I bought a high roof.

The floor serves 3 purposes. Allows insulation, allows electrical cords to cross the van and provides the base for all the cabinets.

More details:

http://www.ortontransit.info/testfloor.php

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 10:20:AM
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On my medium roof van, and me being around 5' 8", I could not stand up with that thick of a floor
On my first build I over insulated the floor. All during the build I was fighting a not so level floor and I lost a good inch of interior height when all was said and done.

On my second build, I took into account that cold air sinks, warm air rises and when the deck is dead flat the rest of the build is much easier. I laid down Reflectix and cut out around the skids then sealed it all with foil tape before putting down dead flat 1/2" MDF sealed on both sides and all edges with exterior spar varnish. The Reflectix might give me a small R3 value and I don't have any road noise from the floor area so it seems to have done the job. I gained back an inch in interior height and working off that floor has made cabinet building simple and squeak free. As for warming, it's about the same as before. The van warms quickly and stay's warm with little effort.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 10:25:AM
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i am 6'8'' and i can not stand up in a high roof so that made the choice of roof heights simple: i got a medium roof! (being able to stand in a van is terribly over rated unless you have an indoor shower.)
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2016 transit cargo 250 MR, LWB, 3.5 eco, 3.31 limited slip
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 11:47:AM
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i am 6'8'' and i can not stand up in a high roof so that made the choice of roof heights simple: i got a medium roof! (being able to stand in a van is terribly over rated unless you have an indoor shower.)
I had several reasons for the high roof that may not apply to others:

1. Wanted floor insulation.
2. Wanted cabinets to be well anchored to the floor in case of an accident.
3. Needed to run electrical cables across the van (cut notches in the insulation for the cables)
4. Do have an indoor shower.
5. Higher roof reduces the claustrophobic feeling inside a small van.
6. The rear bed platform design uses four 27" wide panels that are hinged just below the rear window indents. They are stored vertical against the side walls and then fold down and sit on the rear table to create the bed platform. Front two can fold up during the day to expose the front half of the table so two can eat at the table. The van height allows the panels to be long enough to meet at the van centerline when down. When folded up against the wall there is still enough space above them for normal upper cabinets.

Everything in a conversion is a compromise.

That said I like the looks of the medium roof better and I do notice the roof being higher than my sold Sprinter. Have to be extra careful about obstructions.

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 01:59:PM
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Originally Posted by orton View Post
I had several reasons for the high roof that may not apply to others:

5. Higher roof reduces the claustrophobic feeling inside a small van..
a van is what it is, sounds like you should have bought an RV.

my floor is 2 and 1/4 inches thick. (1 and 1/2 inches of polyiso plus 3/4 plywood) bolted thru the floor. cabinets and an inverter plus an all steel battery holddown bolted thru both floors with back up plates. walls 2 inches thick. (1,1/2 inches of polyiso and 1/2 inch V groove cedar planks) a slightly dropped ceiling. (1,1/2 inches of polyiso and 1/2 inch V groove cedar planks) front and rear wooden bulkheads with sliding doors insulated with more polyiso. my dickinson marine P9000 propane heater runs very little at night in temps in the teens! (F) i have all the comforts of home including an 80 inch home made sofa/bed! no shower but i can take showers in truckstops for less then 10 dollars. (i will try one of those portable showers in warm weather.)

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 07:04:PM
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Correct. The van is what it is and just what I want. The object is to maximize its use for my application and that includes having additional height. Sorry if you bump your head. I do not.

My floor is a little under 2 1/8". Filled between the corrugations with 1/2" closed sell foam, next later is 1/8" MLV, next 15/32" plywood and last a 1 1/12" thick 80/20 framework. Filled in between the 80/20 framework with 1" polyiso rigid insulation, a layer of 1/16" fiberglass shower wall sheet and then 3/8" gym mat floor surface.
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