A question about insulating for sound - Ford Transit USA Forum
 5Likes
  • 2 Post By RandomJoe
  • 1 Post By Michael Ophus
  • 1 Post By hawkeng
  • 1 Post By orton
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 03:08:AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
BabyBuffy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 467
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 155 Post(s)
A question about insulating for sound

I've done an insane amount of reading about insulating. I thought I had all my materials on hand for doing the floor but discovered today when reading a comment made somewhere by Orton that MLV worked best with a layer to isolate it from the metal so I ordered a roll of 1/8" polyethylene that I will apply as the layer under the MLV I already have.

Later I was gratified to see when I re-read the sounddeadener website that was specifically what they recommended doing.

The only person who I've run across who describes going to the effort to sound deaden the driver's compartment is KLP in his impressive "Yellow bird" write-up.

Now I feel compelled to follow his footsteps and it has me worried because even he hasn't yet described overcoming the challenges of insulating all of that nasty area with it's potential for setting off airbags and whatever other threats exist there.

It has me wondering how many on this forum who have described extensively their insulating method have thoroughly tackled doing the driver's area? Do you do the firewall, under the seats, do the seats have to be removed? Do people insulate their driver and passenger doors? Do you use CLD and MLV?

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
BabyBuffy is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 06:45:AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 475
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
I just insulated above the headliner and in the doors. It made quite a difference. There is tons of room above the headliner for insulation, including in the areas above the doors (so roomy there I doubled up the insulation), and doing that area greatly reduced the wind noise at highway speeds. The doors helped with road noise - and made the "turbo whine" almost inaudible! (Sacrilege, I know - I don't like hearing it! )

The headliner is a pain to remove / reinstall, but it isn't terribly difficult as long as you have trim removal tools. (The ends of them look like wide flat screwdrivers with a notch in the center to pop out the plastic pins.) Someone else here mentioned getting a set from Harbor Freight, so that's what I got and they worked just fine. You also have to drop the overhead shelf / remove visors / remove dome light. Lots of screws including one hidden deep inside the hole for the dome light. (A putty knife along the front edge of the dome light will release the catches that hold it in.)

The doors I did differently. I didn't want to put anything IN the doors since that area will get wet over time as water seeps between the window and seal. The plastic door trim is quite thick has lots of space inside for insulation though! I cut chunks of insulation to fit into all the crevices.

Getting the door trim off took a little bit to find all the screws and get the clips to release but it's doable.

Really, the airbags weren't a problem. Just leave them be and don't do anything where it'll impede the inflation of the bag if/when. The ones in the headliner don't need to be touched, if you remove the seats you'll have to unplug the ones in there but again no big deal - they're wired to a plug under the seat like everything else powered in the seat (occupant sensor, motor leads if power seats...).
BabyBuffy and sschefer like this.

2016 T250 LWB HR 3.5EB 3.31LS Most all the bells & whistles...

Ordered: 25 Jan 2016
Got VIN: 08 Feb 2016
Window sticker: 25 Mar 2016
ETIS Build Date: 5 Apr 2016
Picked up: 21 Apr 2016
RandomJoe is online now  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 12:42:PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
BabyBuffy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 467
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 155 Post(s)
Attempting to find out how I will be able to expose the inside of doors when it comes time to insulate. Not sure if this video applies but now I'm scratching my head about what it will take to get the door panels off.

In this video the guy fails to solve the problem.



I know several people on the forum have succeeded. What is the procedure?

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
BabyBuffy is online now  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 12:47:PM
Senior Member
 
surly Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 583
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
The door panels come off easy, there is a link to a video on the thread discussing side mirror replacement/trade. Something like 5 torx screws (some under covers), unplugging the wire harness, then unhooking the door handle cable. There is a plastic film over the main hole, but it sticks right back on.

2015 T250 MR cargo w/windows, LS. Purchased new 9/2016. Richmond, CA
Go Ducks! track&field 84-86
surly Bill is online now  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 01:43:PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: mississippi
Posts: 962
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
a speaker thread but it does a good job of telling you how to take the doors apart! Door speakers/Tweeter install
BabyBuffy likes this.
Michael Ophus is online now  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 05:58:PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
BabyBuffy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 467
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 155 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by surly Bill View Post
The door panels come off easy, there is a link to a video on the thread discussing side mirror replacement/trade. Something like 5 torx screws (some under covers), unplugging the wire harness, then unhooking the door handle cable. There is a plastic film over the main hole, but it sticks right back on.
Any opinions about whether or not worthwhile to pro-actively acquire a collection of Push Retainers to have on hand once I'm into stripping down the interior for insulating?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IXXNP9S...ing=UTF8&psc=1

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
BabyBuffy is online now  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 09:00:PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 475
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
I've been able to reuse all my retainer pins. I've even taken the big foam blocks out several times (I keep adding things...!) and while the two pins in them are looking pretty rough they still hold fine when I push them back in.

There haven't been that many of them anyway - but I don't have the "load protection" panels or whatever they called it, so I just had a few on the slider door, the two in each foam block, the three (think it is?) that hold the back edge of the head liner.

2016 T250 LWB HR 3.5EB 3.31LS Most all the bells & whistles...

Ordered: 25 Jan 2016
Got VIN: 08 Feb 2016
Window sticker: 25 Mar 2016
ETIS Build Date: 5 Apr 2016
Picked up: 21 Apr 2016
RandomJoe is online now  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 11:05:AM
Senior Member
 
hawkeng's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Huntsville Alabama
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyBuffy View Post
Any opinions about whether or not worthwhile to pro-actively acquire a collection of Push Retainers to have on hand once I'm into stripping down the interior for insulating?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IXXNP9S...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I have found this website to order replacement clips.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/default.asp

The generic ones do not always fit the best.
BabyBuffy likes this.

2015 Transit 350 Wagon 148" LR Blue Jeans
Converted to Conversion Seating for 9.

Pioneer NEX-4100 HU, Focal Components in front, Hertz coax in the middle, Focal Coaxial in the rear doors. Pioneer 8" low profile sub between Drivers/Passenger Seats
hawkeng is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 01:00:PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Occidental, Ca.
Posts: 2,835
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1011 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomJoe View Post
I've been able to reuse all my retainer pins. I've even taken the big foam blocks out several times (I keep adding things...!) and while the two pins in them are looking pretty rough they still hold fine when I push them back in.
Bought replacement foam block pins from local Ford dealer. They had them in stock and they cost $2.93 each. Part # *W710532*S300
DrJean likes this.

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
orton is online now  
Reply
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.insulating MR RWB Transit garandman Interior 14 03-13-2017 12:58:PM
Insulating a cargo van??? BabyBuffy Camper Vans and Conversions 16 02-19-2017 09:54:AM
Sound Deadening? antran7 Interior 45 12-03-2016 01:54:PM
Whirring sound from engine klp Engine and Technical Discussion 2 10-26-2016 09:12:PM
Insulating for sound BabyBuffy DIYs and Modifications 22 09-27-2016 08:18:PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off