80/20 - collision protection - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:20:PM Thread Starter
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80/20 - collision protection

Some of the discussions I've read recently now has me thinking hard about securing whatever will be in the rear of the van against becoming a flying killing object in a severe collision. In particular the refer and lithium battery destined to be behind the driver seat, but everything else as well.

Evidently nothing made of wood is reliable enough so it has me considering a framework of some kind, possibly made of 80/20 which before, I never thought I would use. The price of 80/20 itself is not so bad but the cost of the brackets and various items needed for joining pieces together seem hideously expensive.

What better alternatives would still serve the purpose?

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:45:PM
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My 80/20 structure is all connected together so it is one large unit. Not at all concerned about what will happen with a major collision. If it moves I will already be very dead.

80/20 does not have to be expensive. I spent about $1400.00 for a conversion. The trick is to make your own connectors. Just buy aluminum flats and angles and cut your own. The 80/20 connectors are too thick and do not have the holes in the right (IMO) locations.

Pictures and printable PDF drawings of the connectors I made and the ones I bought from 80/20:

http://www.ortontransit.info/testeighty4.php
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:51:PM Thread Starter
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I thought I remembered that you made your own - was planning to scan through your blog again. Do you use triangular flats as corner gussets? What is a suitable thickness?

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 02:11:PM
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I used 3/16" flats and angles. 80/20 is all 1/4".

As much as possible used 5/16" carriage bolts with either a 3 hole flatbar or a angle connector. Think there were only a couple of places I made a 3 hole plate. In order for the nuts to not hit each other the holes need to ne 1" from the angle apex so holes are offset in the 1 1/2" angle. Angles can be shorter to allow for a 1/4" plywood panel.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 04:49:PM
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Originally Posted by BabyBuffy View Post
What better alternatives would still serve the purpose?
First choice is to make your own. Get raw materials locally or at http://www.onlinemetals.com/ or other online site. If online metals, subscribe to their email list and wait for a sale, periodic 20% off sales are not unusual. For most of my fittings I did this after buying a sample of each item from 8020.net. Of course, these fittings will not be anodized, if you are picky. Alternate is to go to http://www.tnutz.com/ for your basic fittings, at about 1/2 the price of 8020. I buy all of my basic shapes there when I want anodized. They are equal to 8020 quality. I recently bought some of their extrusions also and should say that they were not packed as well as from 8020.net--there was no separator to keep extrusions from rubbing together in shipping so there was some marking.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 10:40:PM
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Smile Uni strut slotted channel rather than 80/20 alum

Hi,

I have good experience with Uni strut. The channel is available in slotted which saves weight, and 7/8" x 1 5/8" so called reduced section channel is also available as well as standard 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 .

T A
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 11:54:PM
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i was not shy about drilling holes in the floor, welded steel battery hold downs with back up plates under the transit floor, inverter bolted to the floor, 3/4'' plywood bulkheads bolted to the floor, walls and roof beams, subfloor bolted down and cabinets screwed to the subflloor. overkill perhaps but maybe the airbags will do there job and everything will be wonderful?

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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 12:17:AM
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Lightbulb Safety First, Adventure Always, securing gear

Hi,
You have great ideas.
I installed 3/4" plywood at rear of my 10 passenger 130 WB wagon after removing the rear bench set.
Also, put 1/4" Riv nuts in side wall OEM trim button holes and bolted 3/4" plywood to side walls.
I am being carefull to use a method whereby I can lower any side wall shelves etc, when I have 7 passengers on board so as not to block path of the side curtain air bags.

I don't think my 10 passenger has any air curtains above the rear door??
Because the headliner is secured very well by rear doors.'
This is good because I plan to install 54" high vertical Uni strut and secure it with a big 10 mm bolt going into the OEM threads that are there for some optional shoulder harnesses.''

Currently , I have strapped the heavy OEM jack under the rear bench seat. I also use nylon straps to secure my 54 quart ARB fridge.

TA
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 03:29:PM
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Seat track (80/20?) is only used on airplanes on floors. Too heavy/expensive for other uses. All other places on the plane that need serious restraint may use "button/mushroom" mount pads. About 2" dia. and about 1/2" high and accept a standard seat-type locking device "button" used with seat tracks. Single-aisle airliner cargo compartments use nets to keep inward-opening doors clear of stowed baggage. Stanchion, net and button pads. Available on the web.

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 01:31:AM
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I built cabinets, walls, a bed and mounted my seats with aluminum angles, bar and rectangular tubing. If you buy aluminum from a dedicated aluminum distributor, it is affordable - I spent less than $500. It is probably helpful to figure out how to weld it, but you can also drill holes and use bolts. You can cut it with a miter saw. There are formulas you can use figure out the minimum size material you need for a given application. I did this for my cabinets and bed and I feel like the results matched the estimates pretty well. I bolted everything to the wall and floors with rivnuts and it is very solid. For batteries, I put a second battery into the OEM battery box under the driver's seat. For a larger system, I'd go with Hein's undermount battery box.
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