12V to 12V charger...... - Page 3 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 07:50:PM
klp
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Sounds good to me. I wonder if that is specific to their batteries, I was looking at one from Stark.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 09:39:PM
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I like my 12v charging system. I either plug it in to 110v or I fire up the generator. Soooo simple...

2016 T250, MR, LWB, 3.5L EB, 3.73 LS, Sync, Tow Package.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:13:AM
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Originally Posted by klp View Post
Dammit! Here I was starting to learn and now I am back at ground zero.

I was thinking Lithium Ion, shunt to measure capacity, 12v to 12v charger and a battery isolator. According to the Victron rep I only need some thick gauge wire to run to the alternator direct? That would save some $ for sure. I am not confident he is addressing the smart charge format of our vans. From what I have read the alternator puts out very little until braking, when it spikes to a much bigger voltage. Without those numbers I am not sure I trust the battery rep's response entirely.
Just now I googled Victron vs. Mastervolt. I did it because looking through some of my old posts I saw where Mastervolt had been recommended by Michael. That led to me encountering this website which anyone interested in Lithium Batteries should find useful. I've barely dug into it myself but so far I think it is a rich vein.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...lt-146179.html

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/tags/lifepo4.html

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...mbi-22277.html

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:23:AM
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3 charging systems: solar, On all the time, simple. B2B, On all the time, simple. 100 amp 4 stage inverter/charger, plug in to shorepower, simple. (install/program a small pain but you only do it once!)

2016 transit cargo 250 MR, LWB, 3.5 eco, 3.31 limited slip
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 06:34:AM
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Sounds simple enough. I don't know if I will do shore power, I plan to drive enough and use solar when stopped.

Solar requires panels and a charge controller, correct? I can't imagine I can simply plug my house battery into the system and it will work but that would be great.

Do you need the inverter or could you simply run a charger off shore power?
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 09:27:AM
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Solar can be very simple. One 300 watt panel with + and - cords. Two holes in the roof for 90 degree bulkhead fittings, a MC4 extension cord cut in two, cords connected to the input + and - terminals of the MPPT solar controller, a circuit breaker in the + cord between the panel and the controller, a cord from output of the solar controller to the battery + and - posts and a circuit breaker in the + cord to the battery.

More info:

http://www.ortontransit.info/solar.php

2015 high roof 148" WB 3.5 Ecoboost 3.31 LS rear cargo.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 11:38:AM
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I contacted Victron and they said the BMS 12/200 could only be used on their batteries. I have read the specs and manuals for both the BMS and their batteries and there is no obvious reason the BMS wouldn't work with any LiFe battery. I may buy one and test the outputs for compatibility to my LiFe battery.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 04:18:PM
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Dammit! Here I was starting to learn and now I am back at ground zero......

... Victron rep ... I am not confident he is addressing the smart charge format of our vans. From what I have read the alternator puts out very little until braking, when it spikes to a much bigger voltage. Without those numbers I am not sure I trust the battery rep's response entirely.
I need more info on just how smart our alternators are. Can anyone point me toward credible source? I can see if all batteries charged, no load, then alternator will "coast," and perhaps kick back in during braking, even if no load. But let's say there is a load, wouldn't the alternator continue putting out amps as needed? Specifically I am thinking B2B charger like the CTEK D250S, the only one in my price range...and AGM, not Lithium. I'm assuming if house battery could use some charging, the D250 would present a load to the alternator.

2015 HR mid-length, EB3.5, 3.31 blank canvas

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 07:39:PM
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I need more info on just how smart our alternators are. Can anyone point me toward credible source? I can see if all batteries charged, no load, then alternator will "coast," and perhaps kick back in during braking, even if no load. But let's say there is a load, wouldn't the alternator continue putting out amps as needed? Specifically I am thinking B2B charger like the CTEK D250S, the only one in my price range...and AGM, not Lithium. I'm assuming if house battery could use some charging, the D250 would present a load to the alternator.
US vans aren't very smart. They don't have regenerative brakes so at best they'll just regulate output as demand dictates. That's all the info I could ever find/pry out of ford.

A good B-B will take what it can get and then add what it needs to create the correct charging profile.

I monitored my vans output and it was a consistent 14.5 when charging immediately after starting. The Sterling kicks on if it sees 13.3v so I added a timer relay set to 3 minutes so the charger doesn't come on until the vans battery has had a chance to fully recover.

2016 T250, MR, LWB, 3.5L EB, 3.73 LS, Sync, Tow Package.
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