I am getting close to being ready for installing insulation. Just have a few more conduits (for future power/speaker/water lines) in the wall cavities and it'll be good to go. I am leaning toward closed cell spray foam insulation for a few reasons: the high R-value it offers, the built-in vapor barrier and also the added structural rigidity it'll provide along with sealing up those hard-to-reach places that rigid boards can't. I work with a spray foam contractor that sprays the houses I build. I got off the phone with one of their guys earlier who had some information that I want to verify with those who have gone the closed-cell route.
They are recommending Bayer Bayseal CC-X. This has an R-value of 6.9/inch which seams to be one of the higher values I've seen. I am thinking of spraying 2" on the walls and ceiling. Not sure if it is worthy on the floor or if I should build it up with 2" of Thermasheath (R-13). There aren't significant savings once you consider the labor associated with furring up the low flutes to be flush with the top flutes ($1/SF Thermasheath compared to roughly $2.50/SF with Bayseal CC-X).
1. I know panel distortion is a possible result if they spray too thick of a coat due to application temperature. From what I was told, the minimum they can spray in a coat is about 1.5" so they would come back with a thin top-coat.
2. The temperature of the foam is somewhere between 175F and 200F at application.
3. Offgasing of the foam should be "complete" in less than 12 hours with the doors and windows left open.
Questions:
1. What products have others used? Cost?
2. Was anyone able to get their installer to spray thinner, but more coats?
3. Considering how hot the body (color is white) gets in the summer sun, does this seem to be risky? Distortion an issue on your installation? Photos?
4. Spray the floor or build it up?
5. If anyone has any advice/regrets about closed cell installation please let me know. I would plan on installing some left-in-place blockouts around the mechanics within the door panels...clearly don't want the foam preventing those from functioning.
Product Data on Bayseal CC-X: http://www.idi-insulation.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Bayseal-CC-X.pdf
Thanks!
They are recommending Bayer Bayseal CC-X. This has an R-value of 6.9/inch which seams to be one of the higher values I've seen. I am thinking of spraying 2" on the walls and ceiling. Not sure if it is worthy on the floor or if I should build it up with 2" of Thermasheath (R-13). There aren't significant savings once you consider the labor associated with furring up the low flutes to be flush with the top flutes ($1/SF Thermasheath compared to roughly $2.50/SF with Bayseal CC-X).
1. I know panel distortion is a possible result if they spray too thick of a coat due to application temperature. From what I was told, the minimum they can spray in a coat is about 1.5" so they would come back with a thin top-coat.
2. The temperature of the foam is somewhere between 175F and 200F at application.
3. Offgasing of the foam should be "complete" in less than 12 hours with the doors and windows left open.
Questions:
1. What products have others used? Cost?
2. Was anyone able to get their installer to spray thinner, but more coats?
3. Considering how hot the body (color is white) gets in the summer sun, does this seem to be risky? Distortion an issue on your installation? Photos?
4. Spray the floor or build it up?
5. If anyone has any advice/regrets about closed cell installation please let me know. I would plan on installing some left-in-place blockouts around the mechanics within the door panels...clearly don't want the foam preventing those from functioning.
Product Data on Bayseal CC-X: http://www.idi-insulation.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Bayseal-CC-X.pdf
Thanks!