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Thin insulative skin to adhere to surface metal?

10K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  Myfirstford 
#1 ·
I couldn't think of what to search for. I am looking for something that will cover exposed metal on the interior of my transit, like a thick tape or something like that, just to keep the heat conductive metal isolated. What material should I be looking at?
 
#2 · (Edited)
the vast majority of people on this forum make no attempt at covering the exposed metal wall reinforcing frames, i have no idea why other then it may interfere with the're east/west bed schemes. myself and a few others here have covered all of the exposed steel with cedar or pine tongue & groove planks on 2x2 or 1x2 studs with insulation in between the studs.

although many here use one type of tape or another to cover the rear wheel wells to deaden the sound, maybe some of those may have insulation qualities as well? search: sound deadener.
 
#4 ·
Consider indoor/outdoor carpet which is 3/16" thick.

I left the existing plastic rear wheel covers and put 1" closed cell foam on top and side of the covers.

I have an across the van bed platform so did not want to fill the window indents in order to get a 73 1/2" bed length. Put 1 1/2" polyiso between the steel stiffeners and 1" on top of the stiffeners. Filled in between with Great Stuff and covered the polyiso with indoor/outdoor carpet.
 
#5 ·
This is exactly why I asked. My plan is an east-west bed in the rear, and for that, being 6'1" tall I need all the space I can get. I wasn't even sure I want more then 1" polyiso between the stiffeners (I assume you mean the flat space where a window would have been installed had one gotten windows from the factory). just to conserve space.. The plan is polyiso between the stiffeners, covered with carpet. But then I need to cover the stiffeners with something..

For the rest of the van (roof and forward walls) I plan on Thinsulate behind pine planks, but for the bed area I needed more space.
 
#10 ·
DOW Thermax rigid insulation is about as good as it gets without going to vacuum insulation panels which cost lots more, and are very fragile. You could cut some score lines into a sheet of Thermax and curve it to fit the sheet metal. If you want soft insulation, then look at Aerocel EPDM Elastomeric Sheet Insulation. Thermax is R-7 per inch, and Aerocel is R4.1 per inch. Aerocel is an effective vapor barrier.
 
#11 ·
Since I had it anyway, first I put a layer of FatMat over the window panels; then I cut Reflectix insulation which tucks nicely into each each window panel's groove. Then I used 3-M 90 to glue cheap indoor/outdoor carpet over the entirety of the window indent. I have quilt batting stuffed into the lower areas below the window indents; but the upper ones are empty.

Ironically, today my yoga mat arrived. I've been eyeballing the D-pillars, which we will be sleeping next to in our N/S bed alignment; and I was concerned about condensation. Since those pillars are a handy source of ventilation, I didn't want to fill them with insulation. At first I was thinking some thin neoprene, to act as insulation and padding - then realized that 1/4" yoga mat is WAY cheaper (and comes in nice colors). I'm out of 3-M 90, so will try to get 2-sided carpet tape to hold the pieces of mat to the pillars. Depending on how well it sticks - I may use it elsewhere...
 
#20 · (Edited)
I used the same type of material (thin polyethylene foam sheet) for filling in window panels etc. The local discount fabric store sells it in 60" widths, 1/8" or 1/4" thickness, and any length. They call it flotation foam. I attached it with spray on contact cement.

You can see some in the window indents, on the right wall, in the third photo of this post. The 1/4" thickness works nicely there.

The foam is closed cell.
 
#24 ·
Does anyone know what the deal is with Lizard Skin?



It's some sort of spray on ceramic layer (they offer different products for sound and heat insulation). There is a on youtube that gets you to think that the stuff could be pure magic.

1/2 cm thickness. About $800 in paint should do the entire interior in both sound & heat.

What's the catch? How would it perform in a cold environment?
 
#27 ·
Thanks Eiko. For those interested, these are the posts mentioned:

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/50921-insulating-paint-spheres.html

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...86-ceramic-microsphere-insulation-update.html

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/36490-meet-mr-pickles-3.html

Jury is out, but the consensus acknowledges that this is probably not a miracle solution. The effect of exterior use may be more meaningful than when painted to the inside of a van (and only dramatic when comparing stock grey / black roofs to those covered with these ceramic microspheres).

Lizardskin recomends buying a special sprayer and using a good compressor (brief searches suggests they won't be had for less than $300). If you go the DIY microsphere route, you may be able to hand mix with rustoleum and apply with a brush.
 
#26 ·
I was looking at this in various thicknesses:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Adhesive-Thick-Wide/dp/B00D7KVQCG/ref=pd_rhf_pe_s_cp_0_26?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001G8E114&pd_rd_r=0WCT0283EDQH4SYRQCFC&pd_rd_w=a0io4&pd_rd_wg=8DGKI&refRID=0WCT0283EDQH4SYRQCFC&th=1[/ame]
 

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#30 ·
At your height I don't see how E/W would work even as a side-sleeper so you may want to mock this up with a couple 2x4's on the floor first. I am fine with E/W as a side sleeper at 5-10" but when stretching out I just lay slightly askew which adds length.
If you have the extra room to sleep at a slight angle could make all the difference as just adding an extra 12" of bed width adds substantial length goemetrically viewed corner to corner.
 
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