Multi-tank Fresh Water System Feedback Request - Page 2 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:24:PM Thread Starter
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Great feedback everyone, I really appreciate it.

The complexity of a multi-tank solution might not be worth it. A custom single tank that can take advantage of the given space is the better solution. Anyone know of a vendor who will make a custom tank? Or know what terms I should search for?


Quote:
Originally Posted by skagitstan View Post
We've been using PEX and push connectors, so far with no problem (once I had them firmly seated).
I have a question or two:
How do you provide air venting for your lower tank, especially when filling?
When the upper tank is emptied to below the level of the lower tank's inlet, how will you get more water out of the upper? Are you depending on a a pump generated vacuum pressure to help? If so, can the upper handle the negative pressure?
I also think this will be problematic if you do add a vent to the lower tank for filling purposes.

We're only using one (41 gal) tank with a different fill and use scheme, so I don't know how well your system will work otherwise. I hope the wall can support your 80+ pound 10 gal tank, and that its bottom is either supported if it is only partially sitting on the wheel well, or can handle the H2O weight.
Great questions, which I don't have good answers for, which is making me think I should go with a single tank design.




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Originally Posted by sschefer View Post
You will need to raise the upper tank above the lower or you'll never use it all and you'll need to add a vent to the lower tank. The additional vent can extend up to and tie in to upper tanks vent with a Y connector not a T. Water seeks it's own level so as long as you use a Y the vent will not vapor lock.
I'm okay if I don't get the full 23 gallons of capacity, really just want more than 13 gallons.



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Originally Posted by bicyclist View Post
I think you'll need to vent the lower tank, as well. You won't have to raise the upper tank if you run your connecting line down to a tee in the line running to your drain valve and if you put a valve between the tee and the larger tank, you'll be able to drain either/or.
Great idea for the drain.



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Originally Posted by RonR View Post
I used barbed fittings and clear vinyl reinforced hose in my conversion. The vinyl adds a little insulation to help prevent freezing, it is a little flexible and acts like an expansion tank in reducing cycling of the pump and I found it to be more flexible than PVC or PEX so I used fewer connectors. You can also see what is in the hose which is kind of handy for the grey and black tanks.

You should think about weight distribution. I ended up moving my tanks to the front to offset the weight of bikes and gear in the back. Trying to get almost equal weight on all tires with slightly more in the back.

Ron
Seems like clear reinforced vinyl might be a better option than PEX. Is the only con with vinyl you have to use barbed fittings and hose clamps instead of the push-to-connect fittings? Any other cons I should know about?



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Originally Posted by dustboy View Post
I wouldn't use anything but PEX, it's really easy to work with and made to never leak. The slip on "Sharkbite" connectors work great, just make sure to insert the pipe fully. Cover as much of the pipe as you can with foam pipe insulation to prevent buzzing against the vehicle body, and to protect from freezing.

I would recommend an accumulator if you are using a fixed-speed on-demand pump to reduce cycling. If you have the $$$ use a variable speed pump.
Good idea regarding the pipe insulation, I didn't think of that. Regarding the pump, it's "Self-priming water pump with internal bypass-low cycling". I went with the "SHURflo 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution Water Pump" as seems to have best reviews for this type of application. Do you have a variable speed pump recommendation?




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Originally Posted by sschefer View Post
Agree with location concerns. Your water weight will be varying so offsetting the full tanks weight with something on the other side is not going to work. You may find yourself installing air bags. Also, I use Pex after the pump but vinyl from the pump to the tank. It stops the cycling and vibration. You need to shock your first tank of water to get rid of the vinyl taste.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "shock"ing the first tank of water?



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Originally Posted by orton View Post
You could have one tank in less space if you had one custom made either out of plastic or 14 ga. SS. I will have about 24 gallons in the same location with a SS tank that is one tank under my back bench seat. Tank is full height fits in front of the wheel well and then half height over the top of the wheel well. The fill tube will be accessible from the open slider, the outlet will be at bottom front to feed a pump located at back of slider step. The vent tube goes up the back frame for the slider door and terminates with a plastic pneumatic valve exhaust muffler.
What type of business should I search for to find someone able to make a 1 off custom plastic tank? Have any recommendation? Prefer plastic over SS so I can see the water level.



Quote:
Originally Posted by sschefer View Post
The other thing that I see as problematic is the side fills. You're going to slosh out water and you won't be able to fill them completely. I had that problem so I moved the side fill and vent to the top and added a deck plate and installed baffles.
Baffles would be a good idea, any pictures?

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:42:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morey View Post
What type of business should I search for to find someone able to make a 1 off custom plastic tank? Have any recommendation? Prefer plastic over SS so I can see the water level.
There are people that make custom plastic tanks. Maybe ask your local RV dealer?

I had the sold Sprinter tanks made by a local steel fab shop out of 14 ga. SS. Fab shops are available everywhere. For level detection I located the pump in the back slider step area and will have a clear plastic tube going up to the sink faucet. The tank level will show in the clear tube. Since I built a lot of SS conveyors I know how to communicate with the laser shop to cut and bend the parts. Just need a welder to finish. Will have 3 SS tanks fabricated: fresh water tank, grey water tank and the shower water tank. Will also have them make the shower pan. Working on the drawings for the tanks now.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:55:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morey View Post
Great feedback everyone, I really appreciate it.

The complexity of a multi-tank solution might be worth it. A custom single tank that can take advantage of the given space is the better solution. Anyone know of a vendor who will make a custom tank? Or know what terms I should search for?
Morey,
Ronco plastic locate in Orange County CA makes many shapes and sizes of plastic tanks. I purchased my fresh and waste water tank at Ronco at a very good price. I have a contact there that can make any tank for you. Go to ronco-plastics.net to see dimensions and select the shapes and sizes you need. The tanks can be made from white plastic (fresh water) or black plastic (waste water). They will also put on any fitting you need.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:59:PM
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Check amazon for tanks. There were a couple of vendors that also do custom tanks.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 11:08:PM
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Just google RV water tanks and you will get 3 or 4 major vendors. Or PM me and I'll send you a spreadsheet of all tanks on the market from 2 years ago.
The only trick to barb fittings is to get the size that is made for your hose (just fitting is not good enough). Also some vendors make cheap barb fitting with molding flash. Just check and scrape off with a knife if there is any flash.
If you have to remove the hose, I found it much easier if you heat (just about as hot as you can touch) the hose before you try to pull it off.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 10:58:AM
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Multi-tank Fresh Water System Feedback Request

The shurflo pump looks like it has a bypass to prevent the rapid cycling that my pump did when you have the faucet at a trickle. After adding the accumulator, I can even get a small glass of water in the night with the pump turned off so it doesn't wake the kids.

The variable speed pumps are about $200.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:20:PM
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May consider drains on both tanks also.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:01:PM
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I constructed a temporary system for a few years before I had my final water & electrical system up at the lake. It consisted of a tank like yours (mine was 60 gal so I didn't have to fill it all the time) a couple of car batteries and this incredible little pump/pressure tank module, the Flojet 02840. When you take the shower and other longer demand duties it is easier on the pump and quieter in operation. Strongly recommend it. Still use it a lot all I have ever had to do is replace a $14 pressure switch diaphragm once.

Maybe this is overboard but just thought I would get my $.02 in.
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