What roof top air conditioner are you using? - Page 4 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 01:04:PM
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Many OTR trucks use a APU consisting of a small diesel engine driving a generator. You will most likely see these mounted to the outside of the frame behind the fuel tank.

A basic unit will start at around $3,000 and go up depending on additional items such as battery packs, truck coolant heater, engine driven AC and expresso maker. Well maybe not that last one. But if you look inside a modern truck sleeper unit they can put a class A motorhome to shame.

So yes, many OTR trucks use battery packs just like we do but they don't really rely on them to power the AC unit. They use them just like we do. TV, microwave, lighting and other accessory items when they don't need cooling or heat.

I'm sure some trucks are starting to use lithium battery packs with enough capacity to run everything but they are still a very small percentage.

As far as laws are concerned they vary from state to state and even by locality. PA is very strict and OH has none. Yet certain cities in OH might have local laws against idling.

If you live near a truck stop without any regulations get the law changed. Of course even the APU units make a fair amount of noise. Compare it to a campground full of RVs all running their generators.

🙈🙉🙊

Last edited by unclebob; 01-07-2017 at 01:15:PM.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 02:04:PM
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Originally Posted by WhereDoIgoFromHere View Post
Gary,

Nice job on the Heat Loss Calculator and your website. Lots of great information.

How many amp hours per hour of operation would you estimate the Mach 8 to draw while running on low? Do they give enough information to estimate that number? http://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mach/...h-8/mach-8-cub
Hi,
The link does not give the power to run on low, but the YouTube video in one of the posts above (I think) says its 1080 watts running on low. So, it would be drawing (1080 watts)/(12.5 volts)(0.9 inverter efic) = 96 amps (ouch!), and would use 96 amp-hrs per hour of use. But, this is running continuously on low cool -- it would likely only be running part of the time depending on the outside temp and insulation,

Gary
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 07:06:PM Thread Starter
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I went down to the Yellowtail Dam Afterbay in in Montana today. -19 F when we got there. Forget the air conditioner. I need a 4x4 van with a good heater.
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 07:52:PM
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a 2 hose Whynter model ARC-141BG portable air conditioner 14,000 BTU. using a maximum of 10.8 amps at 120 volts AC, intake and exhaust floor vented on opposite sides of the van. powered by a Magnum Dimensions MS2012 inverter with an output of 16.7 amps at 120 volts AC.
I have been thinking about this type AC. Are you pleased with unit and how is noise in the van?

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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:18:PM
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a 2 hose Whynter model ARC-141BG portable air conditioner 14,000 BTU. using a maximum of 10.8 amps at 120 volts AC, intake and exhaust floor vented on opposite sides of the van. powered by a Magnum Dimensions MS2012 inverter with an output of 16.7 amps at 120 volts AC.
And do you have any pics of the setup you'd care to share?

2016 T250, High Roof, Extended Body, 3.7l, 4.10 LS, Tow Pkg, HD Alternator, Dual Batt, Upfitter Sw
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:20:PM
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I went down to the Yellowtail Dam Afterbay in in Montana today. -19 F when we got there. Forget the air conditioner. I need a 4x4 van with a good heater.
That looks like one of those drift boats I've seen out there. Saw quite a few while pedaling along the Madison River.

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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 10:58:PM
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I have been thinking about this type AC. Are you pleased with unit and how is noise in the van?
it works quite well but my van is overinsulated compared to many vans here, R-9 foil backed polyiso in all 4 walls, floor and roof of the living area. the portable ac is in a compartment in the back of the van outside of the living area so it is pretty quiet just blowing ac air thru a short duct into the living area. but it is also a dehumidifier and has a tank that should be dumped every day or two when driving because it will make a mess sloshing back and forth, it is easy to drain out the back door thru a screw on hose. i have not found out yet if it will work with a continuous drain maybe thru a hole in the floor? (it may use some of that water for internal cooling because the exhaust hose blows hot moist air!) it is built to be banged around a little bit because it is designed to be moved from room to room in a house, but i worry large potholes and dips in the road may be too much for it? the truth is it is just an experiment since the original reason i bought it was so in the short term i could cool and start my build in a hot and humid mississippi summer! i may end up with a roof mount yet, but i do not think so because i like the at least part time stealth van approach!

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 11:13:PM
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And do you have any pics of the setup you'd care to share?
no, sorry, i am kind of living in the past with some things, i got my first cellphone 3 years ago, a flip phone i am still using. (i have promised myself i will buy one of those newfangled cameras and learn how to put pictures on a computer before my build is done!)

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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 11:39:PM
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For general reference and without addressing specific comments above, I have used a free standing residential floor unit in an RV application.

It was a fifth wheel toy hauler without AC in the garage/guest room. The space was 12' long, 8' wide and 10' or 11' high. Roof insulation was standard RV, walls were standard foam sandwich, back wall was the ramp door which consisted of several layers of plywood with a gelcoat outer skin and the floor was a single layer of 3/4" plywood on a steel frame (no further insulation). The front wall was luan on frame separating it from the main part of the fiver. There were three large single pane windows and a man door.

This space got hot, quicker than the rest of the RV. It was insulated more poorly.

The AC was an 8000BTU unit. I ran it on a 15A circuit and never popped a breaker. The 4" vent hose went through a hole in the floor to the outside. When not in use I had a screw in plate in the hole. Condensate was mixed in with exhaust and disappeared. It kept the space at 72º no problem. It rattled around back there for 7000 miles sitting on the vinyl floor and did not seem to suffer any negative effects.

I plan on doing the same thing as described above. Put the (same) unit (I sold the fiver) in the van tastefully camouflaged in a cabinet with metal screening.


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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 08:18:AM Thread Starter
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This portable by Honeywell might work really well. http://www.honeywellstore.com/store/...ll-mf08ces.htm

It could be put in a hush box to quiet it down and it only draws 6.3 amps. You would have to give up 15x25x20 inches of space--plus the hush box.

Would you be giving up a lot with no back windows on the van?
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