What roof top air conditioner are you using? - Page 2 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 06:44:PM
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How large is the compressor unit?

2016 T350 148" MR Cargo 3.5
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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 07:55:PM Thread Starter
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31.25 x 21.25 x 10 About 70 lbs.

LG, Pioneer etc... make it very hard to find specific data on power consumption. I like the idea of putting the compressor on the back of the vehicle and not the top. The high top van is tall enough already. Plus these mini splits are very quiet. http://www.pridiom.com/PDFs/Landmark-Series-Specs.pdf
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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:53:AM
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Originally Posted by pjtezza View Post
I recently installed a Coleman Mach 8. It was the lowest profile unit I could find. I have only run it a few times, mostly for testing, so I can't say anything about its reliability. It is not exceptionally noisy, but I find it hard to imagine a rooftop A/C unit that is quiet. IMO, if you have to sleep with the A/C on, it is best to avoid quiet campgrounds and accept the sounds as white noise. A larger diameter fan will generally be quieter than a smaller fan and this A/C has about as big of a fan as can fit in the form factor.
It was chilly out this morning, and I had plans to work on the van, so I ran the Mach 8 on Low Heat for a few hours to warm up it up. (I added the optional 1500 watt heater when I installed it.) Outside the van, I could not hear the fan running at all. I actually climbed up so my head was at the same height as the unit and I still couldn't hear it over the background noise in my driveway. Inside the van, I couldn't hear the fan, but the air moving through the unit and out the vents makes noise. During testing, the compressor was quiet. Overall, I think this unit is about as quiet as you can get in this form factor. The low BTUs might not work for everybody though.
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 07:12:AM Thread Starter
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That's a good endorsement.
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 09:25:AM Thread Starter
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If the van is well insulated then the Mach 8 should be overkill for the vehicle. I watched a video of a man taking reading with his Kill-A-Watt meter. On low cool the meter was reading .7 amp AC. If my understanding is correct then .7amps x 120 volts = 84 watts. 84 watts / 12 volts DC = 7 DC amp draw. That's very good if the unit inside is quiet.
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:16:AM
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That's a good endorsement.
I wish I could tell you it cools great and was reliable, but I haven't been anywhere hot enough to really test it and I haven't had it anywhere near long enough to say it has been reliable.

So far, it is quiet (for the type of equipment), easy to install and otherwise seems to meet its specs.
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:21:AM
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i am not sure where you are seeing .7 amps? the heat strip is not turning on at all because the guy said the van was already hot, and in high cool the AC was pulling 11.2 amps, and i am not seeing the AC compressor starting amps at all because maybe the low cost meter is too slow to read it? starting amps could be about 15 amps or higher.

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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:31:AM
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Originally Posted by WhereDoIgoFromHere View Post
If the van is well insulated then the Mach 8 should be overkill for the vehicle. I watched a video of a man taking reading with his Kill-A-Watt meter. On low cool the meter was reading .7 amp AC. If my understanding is correct then .7amps x 120 volts = 84 watts. 84 watts / 12 volts DC = 7 DC amp draw. That's very good if the unit inside is quiet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7Wt8ciOfOI&t=127s
I hope you are right about the Mach being overkill!

That current draw is just for the fan. The fan is always on, but it takes a while for the compressor to turn on. If you keep watching the video (or skip ahead), at 5:50, you will see the current draw on high cool: 11 amps @120v / 1300 watts (low cool was basically the same). This is pretty close to my unit's rating of 1550 watts. I have an amp meter on my battery system and I saw a peak of 225 amps running through my 12 volt system while testing running the A/C of the van's alternator. Some of the "extra" amps were probably due to losses caused by my 2000 watt inverter and others were probably charging the house battery.
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:38:AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Ophus View Post
i am not sure where you are seeing .7 amps? the heat strip is not turning on at all because the guy said the van was already hot, and in high cool the AC was pulling 11.2 amps, and i am not seeing the AC compressor starting amps at all because maybe the low cost meter is too slow to read it? starting amps could be about 15 amps or higher.
Yeah, you just have to keep watching the video. The temperature knob is just a setting, not a thermostat, so you can probably get the heat strip to come on in any ambient temperature. I can get the compressor to come on in the cold. To get the heat strip to come on, you have to turn on the dial into the heat region and wait for a few minutes. In either heat or cool mode, the fan comes on right away, but both the compressor and the heat strip seem to be on a delay of a minute or so.
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 04:18:PM Thread Starter
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If you download the Heat loss calculator and look at the numbers, I think the heat loss from a well insulated van could be reduce by 4/5's to ~ 3,000 BTU's / HR. But probably still to much amp draw to run through the night on battery power. So no boon-docking with air conditioning without a generator. It would take a minimum of a Honda 2000?

On a really hot day it could supplement the vehicle air conditioning while driving with an alternator to battery charger running.

How long does the compressor cycle on?

http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-...n-conversions/
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