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Family Wagon/Simple Camper

287K views 210 replies 58 participants last post by  TransitSac 
#1 ·
We received our 2016 Transit 350 XLT wagon on 12/13/16 and this thread will track our buildout. Going to haul our family of 3 (maybe 4) and serve as a place to camp and haul bikes/surfboards.

As received:


First thing we did was window tint. Went with 18% which is close to factory privacy glass. We might go get darker film on the rear doors and back windows or just make window shades.


Next was installing Cooper AT3 245/70/R16 and leaving on our first trip. Put 500 miles on it in the first couple days.



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#2 ·
Seat removal: Since we really only need the second row of seats we decided to remove the fourth row, single jump seat and leave the third row 2-seater for now. The jump seat floor brackets are raised above the floor and look quite dangerous. I stuck some foam over them but ended up taking out the floor to insulate and removed the brackets, as well as the fourth row mounts.




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#18 ·
Seat removal: Since we really only need the second row of seats we decided to remove the fourth row, single jump seat and leave the third row 2-seater for now. The jump seat floor brackets are raised above the floor and look quite dangerous. I stuck some foam over them but ended up taking out the floor to insulate and removed the brackets, as well as the fourth row mounts.
Thank you sooooo much for this detailed accounting! I am headed down a similar path using the same LWB MR wagon and am going to convert a 12p to an 8p. In your pic below you I boxed in red an area I assume that by the time you took the pic you had already pulled the outside jump seat rail out and put the bolts back in yes?

Is all that black plastic under the floor board simply rigid support for the floor? Are they hollow and/or fillable with insulation? I know the long continuos one is the heating duct.

Also is everything that is under the floor board in this pic essentially what is under there stock or is any of that foam/insulation blocks added by you?
 

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#3 ·
Insulation Part 1- Floor and walks under the windows. Pulled the rear scuff plate and slider scuff plate and out came the factory carpet floor. Then pulled the wheel well covers and black trim panels.

We used HushMat on the floor and inside the wall panels. It sticks on very easily. Then added Thinsulate (from Hein) to the wall cavities and a bit to the underside of the factory floor (why not??)

Put everything back in including the two seats. Next up: insulate the slider and rear doors.






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#19 ·
We used HushMat on the floor and inside the wall panels. It sticks on very easily. Then added Thinsulate (from Hein) to the wall cavities and a bit to the underside of the factory floor (why not??)
Did the thickness of the Hushmat (.125-inch I believe assuming you can lay it down smoothly) add any difficulties in getting everything to mate back down well?
 
#6 ·
The slider panels were a little tricky to get off. There's about seven screws and four black clips. Some of the screws are only accessible from the back of the door with it open. I peeked back the dust covers with a razor blade and then added Thinsulate. Take your time popping off the panel. It takes some effort.



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#7 ·
Looks great, enjoy the quieter ride. I had good luck removing the plastic with a sharp pull at about 90 deg, you don't have to razor it all off. Just get it started and a good tug removes it.
 
#8 ·
Just finished adding Thinsulate to the rear doors. Right door needs the yellow plastic handle popped off then just pull around the outside. The left door had three clips with grey covers and I didn't remove the entire panel. I just pulled it back and stuff insulation into the cavity. No dust cover on that door.



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#10 ·
Thank you. I'm trying to document some of my progress because I know there's a lot less wagon information on the forum.

As far a layout, we're keeping it simple and plan on the following:
-Platform bed (we can sleep sideways) but want it high enough to keep bikes underneath
-MaxxAir Fan (add thinsulate insulation to the roof when we pull the headliner)
-Portable Fridge
-House Battery (If necessary)
-Awning (maybe)

Not sure what else, but that's the basics and we'll go camp and add stuff if we think we need it.
 
#11 ·
In California camping, is Thinsulate worth the effort?

Hi,
Nice work on the insulation in panel voids. How much does it cost for the Thinsulate to do 130" WB medium roof 10 passenger wagon? What is the Internet supplier, Amazon? I made add some in the future, but will probably wait.

Thank you,
TA
 
#14 · (Edited)
Hi,
Nice work on the insulation in panel voids. How much does it cost for the Thinsulate to do 130" WB medium roof 10 passenger wagon? What is the Internet supplier, Amazon? I made add some in the future, but will probably wait.

Thank you,
TA
We bought 35 linear feet from Hein (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Thinsula...tive-Insulation-for-van-and-car-/131754566187) which is likely too much for our 148" wagon, since we are not insulating the space that the windows take up. We did all the doors and panels beneath the windows and have not done the roof or roof side cavities and have lots left over. Maybe email @Hein and he will know about how much to buy. Maybe 20 linear feet?

Edit: didn;t see your question about Thinsulate and if it was necessary for camping in California. We've camped in the fall up in the mountains above Chico and it was in the twenties at night. We slept in a Toyota Sienna and were relatively cold in a decent seeping bag. And we hang out at the beach for hours in the summer and camp in temps around 90's in the summer, so we wanted a van that would at least buffer both extremes.
 
#17 ·
My bikes fit under bed, awesome

Hi All,'
This Transit site is very good.

So much great info to mod our wagons and vans.

I also have a 2003 Chevy Astro window van AWD with 2 " lift kit and the astrosafari site is good too.

My 2016 Transit medium roof 10. Seater is 130 " WB and it is very nimble and turn radius is good.

TA
 
#23 ·
I got a vinyl floor from a Transit Van and got it installed today, on top of the factory carpet floor.

First I cut some plastic sheeting I had in the garage and screwed them into the floor, covering the holes where seat tracks were removed.

The felt/denim came off the vinyl easily and it fits pretty good in a wagon. I did trim around the blower motor in the rear and a few pillar trim panels. Then I cut holes for the two rows of seats and a few vents. The front tucks under the black trim piece that runs behind both driver and passenger seats. This had to be cut down to fit. There was one spot that didn't match up: at the back of the step trim. It was short but I don't really care.





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#24 ·
In the photo of the floor on it side, did that pull up in one piece after removing the trim from the step and behind the seats? and if so was it easy enough for one person to do it?
thanks
 
#25 ·
I thought it was a single piece floor, but the particle board is split lengthwise and the carpet/adhesive will allow you to fold it in half. A friend and I lifted it out that way, but I was able to carry it back in and install by myself. Make sure that you push the floor fully forward once you drop it back in. I put the trim pieces back on and realized it needed to go another 3/4" forward and it took two people to do so.
 
#27 ·
Working on making patterns for the window screens. I bought Low-E from Hein and am waiting on ripstop Polyester to arrive. Hoping to sandwich the reflective material between two layers of poly and tape the seams. Not sure how the window screens will hold in a cargo van, but I'm thinking about using magnets. I'm pretty confident that with a wagon, the window screens will stuff behind the plastic trim panels. Will know more in a couple days.




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#28 ·
I posted this in another thread "Wagon Insulation" but wanted to document on our build too.

I sewed up set of "rough draft" window covers for the MR/HR rear door windows. This pattern will fit a cargo van without the grey plastic trim. When I added the trim back on they were too wide and wouldn't fit.

They're made from pvc backed polyester front/back with Low-E insulation in between. The new version will be made from black fabric. They will have grommets in the corners and I'm waiting for new Adams suction cups to arrive.

Once I make another batch and verify the fit I'll offer the window screens for sale.





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#29 ·
they look great. easy on and off either with magnets or suction cups. would be interested in price when you get the right fit. if we can fit in our budget, i can have my son, who lives in sc, pick them up.
 
#30 ·
Cool, once I get the new suction cups and black fabric I'll make another set. I changed the pattern today and can offer a slider window cover as well. It's looking like $120 for the two rear door covers, and an additional $80 for the slider. But I'll know more by this weekend.


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#32 ·
I gave my buddy the first set of gray window covers for his HR rear doors and he sent this to me today. You can barely tell there are covers in from the outside. Can't see the suction cups very well either. Black fabric will help even more.



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#44 ·
I wouldn't know, I put them on my van the second day I had it. I think others have reported a 1-2 MPG drop. I love the AT3, very quiet and not as aggressive as a KO2. A friend of mine loves his KO2's and another friend says his are too loud.
 
#34 ·
Window covers version 2 are done. Pretty excited about these new suction cups, they fit great! Black pvc backed polyester is nice too. Will offer a lightweight diamond pattern black poly/nylon ripstop for an additional charge, if you're worried about weight. That fabric will be here tomorrow. Pockets are also an option. If anyone is interested in buying some, email me:
Info [at] strawfoothandmade [dot] com






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#37 ·
Today I helped my friend with our platform bed. He's welding up a queen size (width) that fits behind the third row of seats. Should get finished and sent to the powdercoater tomorrow.


Then we got ready to install the MaxxAir fan. We pulled the headliner and I installed the Thinsulate insulation with 3M 90 contact adhesive. Then cut the hole. Tomorrow we'll get the fan installed with one of Hein's roof adapters.



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#38 ·
MaxxAir 6200K is installed. It's a bit taller than a Fantastic Fan but I like that you can drive with it fully open and keep it open when it's raining. Hein's roof adapter made it much easier and I bought all the tape/adhesives that I heard about from faroutride.com. I have not hooked it up to a house battery yet but my only complaint is that the trim piece inside rattles a bit with the body of the fan. I temporarily stuck some leather pieces that I had into the gaps but it still rattles badly when closing a door. Any tips? Other than the height and slight rattle I'm very happy with the quality.




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#39 ·
...but my only complaint is that the trim piece inside rattles a bit with the body of the fan. I temporarily stuck some leather pieces that I had into the gaps but it still rattles badly when closing a door. Any tips?
Maybe use the fuzzy side of some self-adhesive Velcro. Cut to maybe 1/4 inch wide, and applied to the top 1/4 inch of the trim ring. Several strips on each of the 4 sides (or a continuous strip), and possibly on both inner and outer surfaces, if the first application doesn't to the trick.
 
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