Family Wagon/Simple Camper - Page 3 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #21 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 07:40:PM Thread Starter
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In your pic below you I boxed in red an area I assume that by the time you took the pic you had already pulled the outside jump seat rail out and put the bolts back in yes?

Is all that black plastic under the floor board simply rigid support for the floor? Are they hollow and/or fillable with insulation? I know the long continuos one is the heating duct.

Also is everything that is under the floor board in this pic essentially what is under there stock or is any of that foam/insulation blocks added by you?
-The area in the red box is where I removed the jump seat tracks and then put the bolt back in the floor to cover the hole. I could see the ground through it.
-The black styrofoam is rigid floor support I believe. It's not hollow. I did realize later that the rear seat rails could be used as anchor points for tying things down, and I did notice a few spots in the floor felt soft. Maybe the rails do add some rigidity to the floor. Everything in there is stock besides that white foam you can see in later photos. That's Thinsulate I added because I had extra. I doubt it will help much.

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post #22 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 07:42:PM Thread Starter
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Did the thickness of the Hushmat (.125-inch I believe assuming you can lay it down smoothly) add any difficulties in getting everything to mate back down well?
No problems at all. Everything went down flat. I used a Hushmat rubber roller to get spots to lay flat, but even still it was fine.

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post #23 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 07:49:PM Thread Starter
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I got a vinyl floor from a Transit Van and got it installed today, on top of the factory carpet floor.

First I cut some plastic sheeting I had in the garage and screwed them into the floor, covering the holes where seat tracks were removed.

The felt/denim came off the vinyl easily and it fits pretty good in a wagon. I did trim around the blower motor in the rear and a few pillar trim panels. Then I cut holes for the two rows of seats and a few vents. The front tucks under the black trim piece that runs behind both driver and passenger seats. This had to be cut down to fit. There was one spot that didn't match up: at the back of the step trim. It was short but I don't really care.





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post #24 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:44:AM
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In the photo of the floor on it side, did that pull up in one piece after removing the trim from the step and behind the seats? and if so was it easy enough for one person to do it?
thanks
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post #25 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 12:21:PM Thread Starter
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In the photo of the floor on it side, did that pull up in one piece after removing the trim from the step and behind the seats? and if so was it easy enough for one person to do it?
thanks
I thought it was a single piece floor, but the particle board is split lengthwise and the carpet/adhesive will allow you to fold it in half. A friend and I lifted it out that way, but I was able to carry it back in and install by myself. Make sure that you push the floor fully forward once you drop it back in. I put the trim pieces back on and realized it needed to go another 3/4" forward and it took two people to do so.

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post #26 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 01:04:PM
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I thought it was a single piece floor, but the particle board is split lengthwise and the carpet/adhesive will allow you to fold it in half. A friend and I lifted it out that way, but I was able to carry it back in and install by myself. Make sure that you push the floor fully forward once you drop it back in. I put the trim pieces back on and realized it needed to go another 3/4" forward and it took two people to do so.
thanks a bunch for the info. i can put stickers under the plywood and hopefully bring it all up at once and slide it out. i just want to remove the jump seat rails as they will never go back in. to give the additional stability i can rip plywood where necessary to fill the voids and make it more solid.
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post #27 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:51:PM Thread Starter
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Working on making patterns for the window screens. I bought Low-E from Hein and am waiting on ripstop Polyester to arrive. Hoping to sandwich the reflective material between two layers of poly and tape the seams. Not sure how the window screens will hold in a cargo van, but I'm thinking about using magnets. I'm pretty confident that with a wagon, the window screens will stuff behind the plastic trim panels. Will know more in a couple days.




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post #28 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 03:55:PM Thread Starter
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I posted this in another thread "Wagon Insulation" but wanted to document on our build too.

I sewed up set of "rough draft" window covers for the MR/HR rear door windows. This pattern will fit a cargo van without the grey plastic trim. When I added the trim back on they were too wide and wouldn't fit.

They're made from pvc backed polyester front/back with Low-E insulation in between. The new version will be made from black fabric. They will have grommets in the corners and I'm waiting for new Adams suction cups to arrive.

Once I make another batch and verify the fit I'll offer the window screens for sale.





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post #29 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 10:00:PM
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they look great. easy on and off either with magnets or suction cups. would be interested in price when you get the right fit. if we can fit in our budget, i can have my son, who lives in sc, pick them up.
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post #30 of 144 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 12:25:AM Thread Starter
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they look great. easy on and off either with magnets or suction cups. would be interested in price when you get the right fit. if we can fit in our budget, i can have my son, who lives in sc, pick them up.


Cool, once I get the new suction cups and black fabric I'll make another set. I changed the pattern today and can offer a slider window cover as well. It's looking like $120 for the two rear door covers, and an additional $80 for the slider. But I'll know more by this weekend.


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