Solar setup question - Page 2 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 06:20:AM
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a hybrid inverter, i had to look that up to see what it is: a new name for an old idea! i have two 25 year old Trace 2012 inverters in my home solar power setup. (TRACE, the father of all modern inverters!) my Trace uses shorepower to charge the batteries at the same time the inverter is powering loads for super clean AC electricity power output! (grid tied solar power) i have an magnum dimensions MS2012 in my ford transit.

http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/pro...ger-msh-series

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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 10:25:AM Thread Starter
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Attached is my updated flow chart. This setup should allow me to stay off grid for extended periods of time without the use of propane. This has been very hard for me understand.
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File Type: png Wiring Diagram.png (60.2 KB, 56 views)
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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:12:AM
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I would settle on one type of breakers, in my case BlueSea class A, so your solar 7246 (class C) could be 7230 or 7226. Solar side is higher voltage so smaller amperage breaker is acceptable (say 30-40A, depending on panel voltage). Output breaker of 50 or maybe 40A (480 max / 14V=35A). I use white handle breakers for DC and black handle for AC circuits (personal choice). I used Blue Sea 5502 Class T Fuse Block and Blue Sea 5119 Fuse A3T (Class T) for battery breaker and same battery switch you specified. I would make primary breaker for DC panel be 50 Amp and then smaller breakers for each individual (or group of items like lights) appliance. I would skip the 6004 switch between batteries and DC breakers, and just tie DC panel primary 50A breaker off output of 6004 switch you have between battery and inverter. Confirm that 480 Watts of solar will fit on roof. Batteries wants to be an absolute minimum of 400 AH for this sized system (unless AC appliances will only be used when external power is available). I used the Magnum MS2012 inverter/charger and like it, but it may have issues with AC+cooktop at same time (your batteries may also). Add Magnum Energy ME-ARC remote control with ME-BMK battery monitor. On solar controller, the TriStar is well regarded. I also like the Morningstar ProStar MPPT 40A with meter which will handle 480 watt solar (I used this on my boat). Check out imarineusa.com for good prices on BlueSea parts and Magnum Inverters.

2015 Transit Van Silver 3.7L 148 HR. DIY Camper.

Last edited by jethaden; 12-30-2016 at 11:16:AM.
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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 01:33:PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your input. I built and wired my house. I have no problem with the AC side. Zero experience with DC other than a general understanding. I'll work on expanding my electrical chart. Plan on mounting most everything in a shallow closet with ventilation. What do these DC breakers mount in? I could not find any single breaker panel boxes. All 3 will have different DC sources.

The batteries will be lithium--400 ah. Stored inside the van.
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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 01:40:PM
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this is a optional piece of equipment for magnum inverters, starting on page 16 you could use one of magnums wiring diagrams and your blue sea components. (to wrap your head around how to wire what you already have.)
64-0029-Rev-D-Mini-Magnum-Panel_Web.pdf
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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 02:40:PM
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Originally Posted by WhereDoIgoFromHere View Post
What do these DC breakers mount in? I could not find any single breaker panel boxes.
Since I am cheap, I took a 1/8 Lexan or Plexiglass sheet and just drill out openings for the breakers. Class A breakers take a 5/8 inch main hole and two small screw holes. Cut 5/8 opening with Forstner bit for a clean hole. Class A breakers are 3/4 inch between centers. I mount this sheet to a 1/2 plywood panel with bigger slots for breakers to support Lexan sheet. I ended up only using 1 row of breakers for AC and one for DC for van, even though I cut 3 rows. My main input breakers are at the top of each row (2 pole for AC). And all wire should be stranded due to vibration (just in case that is not self evident). You can also buy fabricated panels, but they can get pricey, and they generally come pre-fitted with some breakers which may not match what you want.

A few pictures:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jethad...h/18546130011/

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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 01:26:AM
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Originally Posted by jethaden View Post
Since I am cheap, I took a 1/8 Lexan or Plexiglass sheet and just drill out openings for the breakers. Class A breakers take a 5/8 inch main hole and two small screw holes. Cut 5/8 opening with Forstner bit for a clean hole. Class A breakers are 3/4 inch between centers. I mount this sheet to a 1/2 plywood panel with bigger slots for breakers to support Lexan sheet. I ended up only using 1 row of breakers for AC and one for DC for van, even though I cut 3 rows. My main input breakers are at the top of each row (2 pole for AC). And all wire should be stranded due to vibration (just in case that is not self evident). You can also buy fabricated panels, but they can get pricey, and they generally come pre-fitted with some breakers which may not match what you want.



A few pictures:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jethad...h/18546130011/


I noticed your rivnuts/plusnut have white rings. Is that caulk or something?

2016 350 HD SRW Transit HR Van 148″, 3.5L EcoBoost® V6 Engine, 3.31 Limited Slip Axle, QuadVan 4×4, SYNC 3, Pewter power 10 way seats, Reverse, parking alert, Lane keeping alert, Dual batteries, Trailer tow package, PATS, Anti-Theft, Upfitter switches, Running Board, Privacy Glass

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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 07:37:AM
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I noticed your rivnuts/plusnut have white rings. Is that caulk or something?
Yes, I just dabbed them in some Sikaflex caulk before sticking them in. Just figured it would help prevent possible rust if/when paint layer was broken during installation and help lock them in. Probably unnecessary.

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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 10:19:AM
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I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet to mount the Blue Sea breakers. Easy to drill for the holes and rigid enough to not require any backing material.

Picture is the on the right in the link:

http://www.ortontransit.info/electric.php

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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 10:33:AM
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I used plastic surface mount boxes. Top left in this picture:

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