Electrical Question: Combining CCP terminals - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 11:30:AM Thread Starter
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Electrical Question: Combining CCP terminals

Im looking to connect a 900w inverter to my vehicle and I need some advice on making the connection to my vehicle battery. I figure I have two options: connect directly to the vehicle battery, or combine the three customer connection points located on the side of my drivers seat.

I have no issue with taking off the seat and connecting directly to the battery if that is the preferred (safest?) solution for the 150amps peak the inverter may draw; however, connecting to the CCP is more convenient and is my plan unless it's recommended not to.

Couple questions for the electricians...

After combining the 3 60amp CCP terminals, is a fuse needed if the single wire is capable of handling over 180amps?

I've started to create a 3 into 1 cable using 3 6awg cables into a 2awg straight lug (see photo) instead of a busbar. Before I go any further, assuming the crimps are solid and heat shrink tubing is used, is this not recommended?
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post #2 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:56:PM
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the only way you might be able to get 150 amps from the transit battery is is you have the optional dual battery and the 220 amp alternator option.
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post #3 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 03:31:PM
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One error I notice in a reply is that a 60 amp parallel fuse will blow prematurely. At 60 amps each fuse will be drawing only 20 amps each in parallel. Basic ohms law. I just think it's a waste of the terminals doing that. The best bet I can see is what some others have done is drill a nice hole in the main bus bar and connect a sufficient size wire to your own fuse block array rated for whatever you're gonna need. That would be the end of the driver's seat dance most folks seem to be doing.

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post #4 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 04:04:PM
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Lots of incorrect info posted here.

The three ccp terminals WILL give you 180amps because they wil share the load.

Most people agree that due to imperfect resistance values of fuses you may want want to limit it to a little less than 180 amps total.

Also that battery will easily deliver 150 amps. How much do you think the starter pulls? What is the CCA of the battery rated at? It's more than 150, I can promise you.

The alternator has a limit to what it will deliver.

900w is only about 73 amps at 12.4 v. The surge rating is barely double depending on your load and what your inverter will do.


Your setup and your crimped tri-wire should be just fine. If you want you can put a smaller fuse between it and the inverters wire (or resettable breaker) to keep you from blowing the ccp fuses that are a pain to get to, especially in a pinch.

That way you overload it, reset and then change your load accordingly. I'd put a 120A or so if you can find one and make it easily accessible. If it blows but the ccp doesn't, you know you're pushing the limits.
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post #5 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 04:38:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromga View Post
Lots of incorrect info posted here. The three ccp terminals WILL give you 180amps because they will share the load.

Ford SVE bulletin Q-226R1 states:

For B+ Battery Power Greater than 60 Amps
Vehicles with factory installed 3 X 60A Customer Connection Points (available with option 67C-Upfitter
switches)
• Connect to the 3 x 60A Customer Connection Points on the driver seat pedestal.
• The CCP’s are capable of providing up to a total of 180A.
• Refer to the BEMM for information regarding the use of CCP’s
Vehicles without factory installed 3 X 60A Customer Connection Points.
Upfitters may order a Customer Connection Point kit through Ford dealers. The kit part number is:
BK2Z-14S411-A
This kit provides hardware for two additional 60 Amp CCP terminals, allowing the modifier to upgrade from
the standard single 60 Amp CCP to three 60 Amp CCP’s, for a total of 180 Amps.

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post #6 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 05:41:PM
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myself, i drilled a 1/4'' hole in the bussbar before any of the fuses and put a bronze bolt and nut in it, then mounted an 80 amp breaker on the side of the seat, 80 amps was all i needed and i did not want to remove the seat ever again. picture of the bussbars: Pictures of the under seat fuses
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post #7 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 06:02:PM
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Hey Michael, can you give us a link to where you age getting the DC circuit breakers? Thanks. I have been using those puck style solid state relays a lot over the years both DC-DC, DC-AC (mostly), AC-DC, even triple pole 3 phase. but I just don't recall coming across DC circuit breakers. Got a picture of your setup sometime when you get a chance?

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post #8 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 07:23:PM
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These are quite common and are sold at local car stereo shops and are all over the net. Available in many sizes.
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post #9 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 09:09:PM
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no pictures, i am still living in the past and do not have a cellphone camera. https://www.grainger.com/product/VEL...Code=P2IDP2PCP
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post #10 of 152 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 09:25:PM
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