Meet Yellow Bird - Page 11 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #101 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 06:31:PM Thread Starter
klp
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I spent a bit of free time in the garage today. This took about 20 minutes and came out much better, always the way. Here you see the wires attached.



I decided to augment the screws with my favorite adhesive, it's touted as a semi drying gasket material. Works great on motos and I figured it would ensure they stay together and also prevent any rattles.



Done. I am very happy with the results. Next time I am free I plan to glue up the thinsulate in the back doors, install these and put the panels on for the first time in a long while. Hopefully they can stay on for a bit.



Depth ended up almost the same as stock, should be plenty of room in there.



Last night it rained here pretty good and I went and sat in the van for a few minutes. I am very impressed with the sound and feel. The treated roof was hushed, you could hear the rain but it was muffled. The untreated section in the rear sounded tinny in comparison. Sitting in the front under the headliner you could hear basically nothing through the roof, just a bit of patter from the windshield.

I am now considering an oem headliner, anyone got a bead on a wrecked Transit? It would be great to find one, even better would be one with no rear ac and the roof vents.
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post #102 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 01:16:PM Thread Starter
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I got the speakers in. Photobucket is not cooperating so I have only got this one pic.



I put the door trim back on and that really felt good. I have owned this van for about 9 months now and have done nothing but take it apart. It feels good to be putting some things back together and knowing they will not be apart again for a while.

The speakers sound great all the way to full volume. I need to listen to some different songs to see if I am truly happy with the stereo.
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post #103 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 01:27:PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to JoefromGA and his pics I was able to remove the door trim without breaking anything. Even with directions it is tricky but do able if you proceed carefully.



This is where I started. Ford put that small tile on there and another small one inside. Access is tough here but I went with 2 layers of cld tiles, about 6 total. I went with two runs above and below the center beam. I had success with two layers on the wheel wells and the passenger floor, despite only needing 50% coverage I think it helps.



I managed to get two full width pieces in, the lower one I glued the scrim ala Hein - I wish I had done it for the upper but it is good. I end up with about 1/4" clearance from the glass track.



This is where I stopped. I put two layers of thinsulate in the upper left corner of this pic, I also fed a piece down behind where the speaker will sit. Due to the limited access the results are not as profound as the other doors but it is an improvement.

I have plenty of thinsulate left, I wasn't sure about it and as a result didn't stuff all the cavities. When I complete the other door I will fill the rest of the voids.

Last edited by klp; 12-06-2016 at 01:29:PM.
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post #104 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016, 06:53:AM Thread Starter
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Steady progress continues.

Drivers door tiled.



The speakers sound great - I want to use it a bit to reserve judgement. I am afraid an amp and sub will only make it louder but not sound any better.

My van is now fully insulated short of a couple ceiling panels, very excited to be done with this phase.

I installed some tiles in the front fenders.



I put two layers where I could, access is through the hinge hole so not great. Put one strip here.

Also one here.



I also put some under the hood. I have not driven it yet so not sure of it's effectiveness but rapping on it makes a big difference. Not much room due to how it closes. I went with two layers again.



I have four full size cld tiles left and a bunch of little pieces. I started with 200 sq ft.

Bad pic here but I got my hitch in.



I got the class IV as I was planning on running a hitch mounted carrier for my motorcycles. Like the rest of the van though this plan is a moving target. I am now thinking a trailer would serve me better in the long run.

Next up I want to sand stain and poly the floor. I hope to have a finished interior for the spring to include beds/storage/lights/fan/window shades.
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post #105 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 12:02:AM
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I think the sound level is hard to quantify though I have done it in stages and can always notice improvement. Someone more studious would have measured sound with their smartphone. I may take a finished reading at some point.

I gained a good deal by doing the cabin. It is where you sit so that may make it more noticeable, dunno. The biggest gains in the cabin are the passenger step box - this area is very tinny and has no tiles. Under the passenger seat is just a wide flat panel - this quieted down a lot.

The drivers side presents less to gain. The step box is smaller and more solid, the floor has a decent tile from Ford. On this side the biggest gain is the area under the seat/ battery box. Again a big wide flat metal surface.
Now I see you did discuss the inner floor area. The second photo looks like a large piece of MLV. Is that what you used? Did you slide it under the matt or use on top? Any problems by adding thickness under the seat pedestal?

I've been solving some of my problems with wood.

2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow

Last edited by BabyBuffy; 12-21-2016 at 01:07:AM.
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post #106 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 12:12:AM
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Wood mounting disks from plywood.

Reinforcements for broken tab.
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2017 Transit CV, MR LWB, 3.5 EB, LS 3.23, Silver Ingot, Lthr 10-pt, Al whls, HD alt, Trlr Tow
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post #107 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:12:AM
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"In my van I had several wires to disconnect, one at each sunshade, one in the middle by the rear view and one in the rear about center of the van. This pic shows the center one, off to the left is another that connects to nothing. I may try to get 12v key on from this to power led puddle lights for the interior"

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Did you ever implement the puddle lights? Nearly did a cartwheel on the ice getting out of driver side last night. What did you do or have in mind? My old Explorer Sport has excellent puddle lights off the mirrors (I think).

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Last edited by keweenawbee; 12-30-2016 at 09:36:AM.
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post #108 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 09:48:AM Thread Starter
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Now I see you did discuss the inner floor area. The second photo looks like a large piece of MLV. Is that what you used? Did you slide it under the matt or use on top? Any problems by adding thickness under the seat pedestal?

I've been solving some of my problems with wood.
Hey sorry I have been away from this thread for a while. I now have my van in the garage for the winter and my winter Escape is running. For now lol.

I started sanding the floor last night - another 2133453 hours and that will be done. For those who have never worked with quarter sawn white oak... it is very unyielding!

The material I used on the entire floor is mlv bonded to closed cell foam. The foam decouples the noise, the mlv blocks it. In theory. The seat pedestals are mounted on four raised discs so I cut around them to prevent raising the seat. What I did not notice on the first side I did(passenger) was that the rear of the pedestal runs about to the metal floor. I carved away some of the foam but it still sat high. I used the bolts to snug it back tight. Not perfect but good enough.

On the drivers side I relieved all the foam under the rear of the pedestal so I had no issues. I did have an issue with the step trim on the passenger but it looks fine.
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post #109 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 09:56:AM Thread Starter
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Did you ever implement the puddle lights? Nearly did a cartwheel on the ice getting out of driver side last night. What did you do or have in mind? My old Explorer Sport has excellent puddle lights off the mirrors (I think).
No lights yet, see above lol. My plan is to run puddle lights all through the interior that always are on if the van is running. For the outside I want house powered lights mounted underneath, off the frame or some fancy bracket. The goal is to have lights that are not seen for camping.

In other news I spent about a week researching enclosed trailers. A nice 6x12 enclosed would really up my game. I am real close to buying the lift from VanCompass but may run 30.5 tires instead. Seems to be more bang for your buck. I need more offset though so I likely won't do anything until more wheels are available. An inch of offset and you could run 30.5" tires an inch wider than stock. All about the stance for me. This would put the tires/wheels at the edge of the fender flares.

When the floor is done I need to figure out my final design for the interior and rough electrical before side panels. I hope to roll out in the spring with side panels and a good idea of my headliner and window finish.
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post #110 of 129 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:40:AM
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I wired my interior LED lights to be triggered by the 30 minute circuit that powers the 12v outlets. When I get around to installing the running board/puddle lights they will be triggered by the dome light circuit.

The interior lights' glow really helps a lot at night to be able to see things in the van, especially finding things on the floor.

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